<^^*o> 




Author 



Title 






Imprint 



16—47372-3 GPO 





Pioeo 



FANCY 

AND 

UTILITY 




By J.W.Williamson 



A to Z 

QF 



Pigeons 

Fancy and Utility 

With Latest Standards 



By J. W. Williamson 



New Edition 

1921 

Illustrated 



Published by the 

Item Publishing Company 



Publishers of 




Sellersville, Penna. 



4' 



A 



(^ 



6 






Copyrighted by the 

Item PubHshing Company 

1921 






®C}AG20398 

Prices 
I'aper Cover . . . i?o.75 
Leather $1-25 

JUL 28 1921 



Index 



Pag-e 

Introductorj' 4 

Origin and History of Pigeons . . 5 

The Characteristics of Pigeons 6 

Classification of Pigeons 8 

Favorite Varieties 9 

Pigeon Questions and Answers ... 10 

The Fancy Varieties 11 

Blue Pied Pouters 11 

English Carriers 13 

Flying Homers 14 

The Show Homer 16 

Dragoons 18 

Tumblers 18 

English Turbits 22 

Magpies 23 

Satinettes and Blondinettes ... 24 

English Owls 25 

Trumpeters 25 

Jacobins 27 

Archangels 29 

Fantails 31 

Swallows 33 

Barbs 34 

ScanderooHS 34 

Runts 36 

Utility Pigeons 38 

Squab Raisers 38 

Squab Raising as a Business ... 38 
A Few Points on Squab Raising 39 
Thorobred Squab Raising Homers 41 

Cameaux 41 

Maltese 47 

Hungarians 48 

White King-s 52 

Mondaines 54 

Duchesse 56 

Squabs 57 

Their Rapid Growth 57 

Raising Squabs 58 

Feeding 61 

How to Feed 61 

Automatic Feeders 62 

Time to Feed 62 

What to Feed 62 

Kafir Com 63 

Indian Corn 64 

Wheat 64 



Page 

Wheat Screenings . . .• 64 

Scorched Wheat 65 

Stale Bread 65 

Peas 65 

Rice 65 

Hulled Oats 65 

Barley 66 

Buckwheat 66 

Hemp 66 

Sunflower Seed 66 

Millet 66 

Rape 66 

Lentils and Vetches 66 

Salt 67 

Grit 67 

Charcoal 68 

Sanitation and Health 69 

Sickness 69 

Water 69 

Water System 70 

Whitewashing 70 

A Good Whitewash 71 

The Proper Way to Clean 71 

Cleaning Houses 71 

Training' Cats to Catch Mice ... 72 

Shifting Nests 73 

Fi-om Egg to Market 73 

Diseases and Their Remedies 74 

Canker 74 

Pigeon Pox 74 

Going Light 75 

Leg' Weakness 75 

Pigeon Houses and Equipment ... 76 
Standard Nesting Equipment 76 
Old Style Nesting Equipment 79 

Mating 80 

The Register Card 81 

Color Bands 81 

How to Tell the Sex 82 

IMarketing Squabs 83 

How to Tell When Squabs are 

Ready for Market 83 

Prepare Squabs for Market .... 84 

How Squabs are Picked 84 

Packing^ 85 

Recipes 86 

Index to Illustrations 88 



Introductory 



Publishers' Preface 

We take pleasure in presenting this work on fancy and utility 
'pigeons by J. W. Williamson to the pigeon fraternity. 

The Standards of the several varieties 'thruout the book are the 
very latest; some of them Mr. Williamson assisted in drafting for 
the specialty clubs and the U. S. Government. 

The subject matter is well taken care of in the practical manner 
for which the author is noted. He has had long years of experience ; 
is a well known authority, having written extensively and bred a 
great variety of fancy birds and marketing squab breeders since 1880. 

His judging at the leading shows has always been favorably 
commented on. His articles to the various pigeon papers have been 
read wath pleasure and profit. Pigeon fanciers have often spoken of 
him as "knowing the pigeon inside and out." One of his lectures on 
"The Inside of a Pigeon" is both instructive and amusing. 

He is a member of the Board of Managers of the National Pi- 
geon Association, member of the American Pigeon Club, Secretary 
of The International Carneau Club and an active member of ^'ther 
•.dubs. 

ITEM PUBLISHING COMPANY. 

Author's Preface 

In presenting "A to Z of Pigeons" to the public the author realiz- 
es the task it would be to mention even in the condensed form in 
which the book is written all of the A to Z of pigeons or "From Egg 
to Market", "All abo«t Pigeons" and the various titles under which 
books on pigeons have been written. No living man can tell all, but 
as this is a revision of the book known as "A to Z of Pigeons and 
Bantams," it was thot well to hold the "A to Z" title in this new 
edition and substitute utility pigeons in place of Bantams. So "A to 
Z" now is strictly a pigeon book of both fancy and utility breeds, that 
are the most poi)ular in America. 

In compiling the manuscript we have constantly had in mind the 
beginner with pigeons, the fancier and the marketing squab raiser. 
With this end in view, origin and history come first as an introduc- 
lory chapter. Some of the things, old fanciers have heard l^efore, 
but not all. The amateur knows very little ; hence we keep begin- 
ners, whom we desire to help, in mind, so they can in after years fill 
the ranks as the older ones drop out. Pigeon fanciers and keepers, 
like all men, do not forever stay in this world. So the first chapter 
is especially written for beginners. 

At Glassboro, N. J. J. W. WILLIAMSON. 



Origin and History of Pigeons 

Everything- has a beginning. Even the ring on a pigeon's leg, 
Init where the beginning and where the ending-? Who knows, and 
who knows the origin and 'history of the pigeon ? The best that can 
be given is gleaned from historical works, including Sacred Writ. 

The first we learn of it is when Noah let the dove fly out of the 
ark to learn if the waters were abated from off the face of the 
ground. The bird finding no resting place returned unto Noah into 
the ark. In seven days the dove was sent forth again — this time re- 
turning with an olive branch ; again in seven days he sent forth the 
dove but it failed "to home," so Noah must be given credit as the 
first flying fancier. 

If the bird had been a present day trained Homer it would have 
returned to the ark eventually, even from hundreds of miles, but that 
would not have been fulfilling the object Noah wished. Every thing 
for its particular purpose ! The dove fulfilled its mission by not re- 
lurning, proving the waters had abated sufficiently for living creat- 
ures to again inhabit the earth and multiply. Noah, by selecting a 
dove instead of a pigeon, showed his wisdom, for even the common 
pigeon has an infinite liking for the cote it has established as its 
home. 

Pigeons and doves have different habits clearly evident when 
left to their natural manner of living — the pigeon living in clefts of 
rocks, caverns and buildings, while the dove builds its nest in trees. 
There are, however, a few exceptions, as the Passenger Pigeon builds 
■in trees. The following- scriptural quotations, stated here as a mat- 
ter of history, g-ive us the pigeon and dove as separate species, which 
were taken to the market places to sell as food. 

Gen. 15-9: "And He said unto him, take an heifer of three years 
old and a she goat three years old and a Turtle Dove and a young 
])igeon." 

St. John 2-4: "And found in the temple those that sold oxen, 
^heep and doves." 

Some vegetarians object to eating all kinds of meat from senti- 
mental reasons only, yet Solomon ate large numbers of young fat 
pigeons (squabs) while some of the Patriarchs oft'ered them with 
other meats as sacrifices. 

Of the pigeons of the old world the most interesting is doubtless 
the Blue Rock pigeon, (Columbae livia) the "biset" of the French; 
a bird of extensive geographical range, breeding in crevices of rocks 
and within caverns that open on the sea. 

Charles Darwin, in the "Origin of Species," claims that all our 
domestic breeds of pigeons are descendant from it or Columbae livia 
with its sub-species. 

5 



Wild Pigeons or Passenger Pigeons are the only birds we can 
lay claim to as an American pigeon. All the other breeds, even our 
'common barn pigeons, have been imported. 

The last survivor of the wild pigeons died in the Zoological Gar- 
den at Cincinnati, Ohio, in the summer of 1914. It was a large slend- 
er bird with small head, short strong legs and feet free from feath- 
ers, a long acuminate tail and was frequently spoken of as a "Bird of 
Passage." 

They were quite plentiful in Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and a few 
Southern States until i860. When a boy, living in Ohio, I observed 
them building in trees and the peculiar way of feeding their young. 
Some of the old farmers stated that from 1835 to 1855 they were so 
plentiful as to be very destructive to crops of wheat, or any like seed, 
during planting time, that when a flock alighted upon a field they 
would settle so thickly upon the shocks that they would cover them 
entirely, and would also break the limbs of trees in the woods. 

\\'hen startled, the sound was like that of thunder and the sky 
darkened as tho a dark cloud were passing. They were caught in 
great numbers in large nets by day and were easily caught in the 
hand at night. The squabs were always so heavy they could not fly 
well, and boys gathered them by the basketful to sell for 2 or 3 
cents per dozen. Quite a contrast to our present pound squabs sell- 
ing for $1.25 each ! 

Toothsome squabs (young pigeons) have always been consid- 
ered a staple article of food for ages, but raising them in great quan- 
tities in a commercial way has been carried on only of late years. 
The eating of squabs has increased greatly ; so much so, that the sup- 
ply is never equal to the demand. 

The Characteristics of Pigeons 

Pigeons are a great deal like human beings and the better a per- 
son becomes acquainted with them the more their various character- 
istics are revealed. Most of them are found to be very loving to each 
other and will attend to their duties as two careful parents should — 
rearing their young with all the care that good parents can possibly 
bestow upon them, feeding and keeping them in robust health. Such 
breeders can be lifted from their nest and they will at once return, 
but woe to the unruly bird that flies to such nests. The dutiful breed- 
ers seem to say, "This is our home, and we will fight before giving 
it up to ruffians." There are a few black sheep in the pigeon fam- 
ily, among both cocks and hens, who flirt with each other's mates 
and get into all sorts of trouble, but there are not many of this kind 
and they are soon noticed by any pigeon keeper. For instance, a 
cock bird will want to be "cock of the walk," and will fight every- 
thing that crosses his path, hasn't a civil word for anyone and abus- 
es his mate. The best thing to do with such fellows is to get them 
out of the way. • Several years ago I had one of these tyrants. I 
knew that in house number six was a "grand old man," as I called 
him, who always attended to his own business and his family, but 
a great fighter if others tried to bully him. Into this house I placed 

6 



the tyrant and his mate, and he began in his domineering way to 
walk over everyone. The "old man" flew at him like an eagle, and 
buffeted him about the house most unmercifully. Personally, I de- 
test fighting, but this one I did enjoy. We kept the tyrant Billy for 
a number of years and he and Teddy R, as I called the "old man," 
got along nicely, and Billy became the tamest bird in house number 
six. He and his mate became as peaceful as the others and raised 
excellent squabs. 

No matter how^ many thousands of pigeons a man may have, 
he will always find time to shov/ his appreciation for those that fly 
to him when he enters the house. He should cultivate the habit of 
noticing the wild ones, and tame them by tossing a few peas to 
them, talking to them, and handling them while on the nest. Teach 
them that you will not do them any harm ; it will pay you a hun- 
dred-fold to do so. This is why I believe in flies not over six and 
one half feet high, low alighting boards, and the alleyways in front 
of the houses instead of the rear, so as to be always near the birds. 




Fancy Breeds 

Cultivate the spirit of love toward them, and you will be paid for 
all such trouble, no ntatter how many birds you have. Two thou- 
sand can be kept tame and quiet as well as one hundred and they 
will work better. 

Other Habits — The coo of some birds is different from others. 
1 do not mean to the extent that some will make a trumpeting sound 
like the Trumpeter pigeon, but there will be some little peculiarity 
in the voice which an attentive pigeon fancier will quickly notice. 
vSome will build a nest with only a few stems while others will build 
very high. Some birds will mate in three minutes after being to- 
gether, while others will be two or three weeks, and possibly six 
months, when a lot of unmated birds are together. Sometimes a 
young cock bird will run from a hen he has been flirting with, like 
3 bashful youth, just as she is about to take his bill. 

A cock bird is a very bashful fellow at times if there happen to 

7 



be two odd hens trying to mate to him. He seems all bewildered, 
and does not know which to take. When eggs are laid in such cases, 
there are usually three or four but the continued fights between the 
two hens causes the eggs to chill so that they will not hatch. The 
greatest trouble in a breeding house is when two cock birds want 
the same hen, or the same nest. Pigeons are not doves, and in order 
that they may be peaceful, nothing but mated birds should be in an 
established breeding house. 

Classification of Pigeons 

To better understand the subject of pigeons they should be 
classified in order that the good points in each breed may be easily 
distinguished and should be divided into classes that the fancy may 
be more properly displayed and judged. Some of the 150 varieties 
will be mentioned in the following pages. 

Some varieties possess points and properties in which color and 
markings play no part in making them distinct breeds. They should 
therefore be separated from those wdiich differ in color and mark- 
ings from common street pigeons. The specially distinguished pi- 
geons have always been considered the lords of the fancy and when 
classification became necessary they were placed at the head of the 
list as High Class Fancy Pigeons. In classifying, some place one 
breed to head the list wdiile others place another breed. I will head 
the list Avith the Pouter, the dude of pigeondom, a large bird stand- 
ing more erect than all others, sporting a large globe. In blacks the 
feather marking is similar to a man dressed in a cut-away coat with 
white trousers ; when on .parade he is like a tall drum inajor lead- 
ing a band. Among this first division may be added The Carrier, 
Short-face Tumbler and Barb. 

Second — Pigeons with distinctive properties where color is not 
an important factor, but with a strong tendency to impress their 
characteristics on their progeny, namely The Show Homer, Jacob- 
in, Owl, Oriental Frill, Long-face Tumbler, Turbit, Scanderoon, Fan- 
tail, Priest, Pigmy Pouter, Mookee, Duchesse, Brunswick, Swift, 
Mahomet. 

Third — Pigeons, wdiich are dependent for ciuality almost entirely 
on color and markings, come under a group known as Toys includ- 
ing many sub-varieties — The Archangel, Helmet, Swallow, Nun. 
Spot, Crescent, Polish Silver Tail, Polish Black Tail, Suabian, Fire 
Back, Shield, Magpie, Breaster, Lahore, Ice, Starling, Quaker, Stork, 
Damascene, Fairy, Hyacinth, Porcelain, Moorcap. 

Fourth — Utility pigeons used for the production of squabs for 
talde use as well as show purposes. Homer, (Antwerp) Carneau, 
White King, Polish Lynx, Mondaines, Maltese, Hungarian, Aus- 
trian Strassers, Teal and Runt. 

Some of the second class that are large and good breeders of 
light skinned squabs also make good utility breeders. 

The foregoing is a fair list of the best known breeds and varie- 
ties from which the novice may choose to suit his fancy for pleasure 
or profit. Before purchasing birds he should first accjuaint himself 



with some good fancier and also subscrilje to a good pigeon maga- 
zine in which will be noted the various breeds and prices of birds of 
many varieties for sale. 

Favorite Varieties * 

Pigeons, like poultry, dogs and other domestic creatures have 
their seasons of popularity. The old American Dominique fowl 
used to be seen on m|Ost all American farms ; now we see more Leg- 
horns. With dogs it used to be the Black and Tan, Pug, and Boston 
Terrier ; now it is the Airedale. With pigeons, the Carrier and Pou- 
ter used to be supreme ; now it is the Pigmy Pouter and Fantail at 
some shows while at others the Homer takes the lead. In utility 
classes the Carneau has the largest entry. At the National Show 
at Indianapolis, Indiana there were 224 entered. 

A favorite pastime with many is keeping Flying Homers. Hom- 
ing pigeons used for record flying are usually termed, "Working- 
Homers." During wars they are used for carrying messages and al- 
ways render excellent service as they fly very rapidly and make from 
500 to 600 miles in a day. Other interesting breeds are Performing- 
Tumblers of many varieties. The Parlor Tumbler can be taken into 
the house and it will rise a few inches from the floor and turn a som- 
ersault like an acrobat. Others classed as Rollers will repeatedly 
and rapidly turn somersaults, scarcely rising from the flopr and the 
closer they stay to the floor the better. Outside performiiig- Tum- 
blers will make a series of flights high in the air and work in a roll. 

Keeping a kit of what are known as Pligh-Flyers, is great sport 
for some people. It is a pleasure to keep them and a displeasure to 
lose them as they are a gamble. My first introduction was as fol- 
lows : I was attracted by a kit of pigeons trying to alight on a tin 
roof on a red hot day in July. Sitting on the edge of a trap door I 
noticed a man waving a piece of cloth, tied to the end of a pole, to 
keep the birds away. I said to a friend "Is that man crazy?" He 
answered, "No, he is a pigeon crank." He will keep those birds up 
trying to get a greater number into the kit. His birds will attract 
them from a neighbor's loft. By the band number he can tell who 
owns every bird he gets in. He then takes them to the owner and 
receives a dollar or two as agreed. If his birds are attracted to his 
neighbor's kit, he is out the same amount of cash. It's a great sport 
on a red hot roof on a red hot day. * 

The latest style of American High Flyer is very racy and at- 
tractive in appearance. Because some Racing Homers have a ten- 
dency to throw wdiite flights in breeding, it would appear that at 
some time in the past this High Flyer had been used to put addition- 
al stamina in the Racing: Pigfeon. 



Pigeon Questions and Answers 

Have you seen a Tippler flying in the sky? 
A lig-ht and silver glimmer gliding by? 
If not, then for you, is a pleasure rich and new, 
For the Tippler is a soarer, long and high. 

Have you seen the Roller tumbling in the sky? 
A long and rapid roll, and wonder why? 
If not, then for you, is a sight oft seen by few. 
For the Roller likes to tumble as well as fly. 

Have you seen a Homer coming from the sky? 
First a speck, then a pigeon to the eye? 
If not, then for you, is a mystery ever new: 
How the Homer reaches home, none knows why. 

Have you heard a pigeon cooing in a cage? 
The coo of love, of vigor, hate and rage? 
If not, then for you, is a sound both old and new, 
For the pigeon's been a pet thru every age. 

Have you seen a Fantail strutting in its pen? 
With a walk something like some proud men? 
If not, then for you, is a sight from any view. 
When you see a Fantail strutting with its hen. 

Have you seen a Pouter pouting in the sun? 
Of this pouting, it would seem, he's never done. 
If not, then for you, this stately "King of Doo(s)" 
Shows you pride, and joy, and pleasure, all in one. 

Have you seen the loyal Trumpeter calling Columbae far and 

near? 
AValking with such a measured tread that all who see him ne'er 

forget. 
His peculiar coo, no others have, yet all draw near 
And never fear for he's kept it up for many a year. 

Have you seen a pigeon fancier in the past? 
Do you know that pigeon pleasures forever last? 
If not, then for you, is a pleasure ever new, 
W'her'er your home, or w^ork or duty may be cast. 

— E. J. W. D. in "American Pigeon Keeper." 



10 



The Fancy Varieties 



Blue Pied Pouters 

The Pouter is one of the oldest varieties of fancy pigeons and 
has been a great favorite as far back as 1735. In that year John 
Moore pubHshed his treatise on tame pigeons, which is thot to be the 
hrst book on the subject. He states that the Pouter was first bred 
in England and is, therefore, called the English Pouter. It was orig- 
inally a mixed breed — between a Horseman and a Cropper — and it 
appears that this cross had been made very many years prior to Mr. 




The Pride of the Show Room 



Moore's remarks, judging from the description he gives. Of course, 
like all others of the older varieties, the Pouter has undergone many 
changes in fashion. Thirty years ago the great rage was size and 
length, somewhat irrespective of thickness of body, style and car- 
riage. The shape of the limbs was not often what one would de- 
scribe as elegant. I believe there are some few records that they 
measured seven and one half inches and over, but seldom, if ever, 
looked as long and more rarely were of the correct shape, position 
and closeness. Since that time the Pouter has gradua-lly been im- 

H 



proved in general structure. The body has been greatly reduced 
in stoutness and the lim'bs no longer give the appearance of greater 
length on account of the careful breeding to get them placed further 
back in the body, closer inserted and hner in bone. Also length 
of feather has not been so much wanted, especially in tail. The 
shoulder has been considerably reduced, which all helps to give the 
bird a more slender appearance and, considering the foregoing points, 
the size of the crop of the present day Pouter is as large and as 
shapely as that of the old time clumsy birds. 

There are many diiTerent varieties of Pouters. The Blue and 
Reds have always been the strongest, both in number and equality. 
The Blacks, altho they have improved in numbers, have made no 
material improvement, especially in color, excepting in a few cases, 
and these instances may be counted on the fingers. In ^^eds it has 
been quite the reverse, a great improvement having been made on 
them during the last several years, and there are plenty of good, 
first class specimens to be seen today. Yellows are quite popular 
and have improved much. These were the last to gain slenderness 
of girth, so much admired. 

The Whites, unfortunately, have gone back very much during 
the past two or three years. 1 do not mean by this that there are 
no good ones, but they are few indeed, in comparison with the others. 
Jn many sections of our Eastern States the Pouter is the most pop- 
ular of the different varieties of fancy pigeons, and much enthusiasm 
is displayed by the fanciers, and in one instance the writer can re- 
late having seen several hundred specimens in one show, nearly all 
of which were of exceptional quality. 

Pouter Standard 

Disqualifications — Trimming, plucking-, coloring or any artificial alteration, 

out of condition from disease, any decided deformity, for whites; stained 

beak; colored feathers; or if eyes are not bull. 
Length of Feather — i. e. the extreme distance when outstretched — from the 

point of the beak to the end of the tail, eighteen to nineteen inches is 

considered the proper length — the maximum figure to be preferred when 

the leg development is such as to admit of easy, lofty carriage, 
jjead Small and narrow in proportion to the size of the bird, forming an 

elongated arch from the base of the beak, measuring about 1% inches 

from the centre of eye to point of beak. 
Crop Should be globular in form, proportionately large and equally distended 

at all parts; to rise well up against the point of the beak, projecting 

prominently in front, and showing but a slight fullness back of the neck. 
Girth Slender, the greater the length from the lower part of the crop to the 

insertion of the thighs the better. 
Back Narrow and long appearing, slightly concave with a grooved line from 

'base of neck towards rump, shoulders tucked close to body. 
Breast — Narrow and convex, showing very little keel. 
Flights— Should be of sufficient length to reach nearly to the end of the tail, 

barely meeting at points directly over and close to the tail, to fold close 

and narrow. 
Tail— Should be sufficiently long, and narrow enough to harmonize in the 

general taper of the bird, round ended and free from tendency to fork 

at extremity. 

IC 



Limbs — Generally leng-thy, both in thig^h and shank, measured from thigh- 
joint to tip of toe nail, constituting about three-eighths of the length of 
the bird. In referring to length, it is not necessarily meant the mere 
measurement by rule, but also a form and position that looks long to the 
eye and at the same time enables the bird, when on a level floor, to stand 
tall and upright without being tilted forward by its tail. The thighs 
should be close together, and start from a position well back on the body, 
allowing room in fi'ont for the much desired long waist, the hock but 
slig'htly shown — almost straight, the entire limb well "stripped," show- 
ing to the fullest extent what length and form the bird may have. The 
feet should incline slightly outward, and the knees in, toes spread, not 
doubled under or cramped. 
Leg and Foot Feathering — The legs should be covered with short, soft feath- 
ers, fitting close and forming a complete mask for the entire limb, with 
only enough covering at the hock to hide the knuckles from view, called 
"Stocking-legged." The feet should have longer feathers, so thickly set 
as to leave no bai'e places exposed on the toes. The feathers should 
spread from the foot rather suddenly, forming what is denominated the 
"Slipper " 
Beak — Fine, mandibles straight, the upper showing slight curve at tip and 

slightly over reaching the lower. 
Beak Wattle — Small and fine in texture. 
Eye Cere — Fine and thread like. 
Carriage — Upright. 
Movemerts — Majestic and proud, with head and crop aloft, gait opposite to 

straddling — graceful. 
Colors — Pieds; black, blue, red and yellow. Plain color; white. Off colors; 

meaiies, sandies, checquers, silvers and splashes. 
Markings — Pieds; the head is colored, also the whole neck and 'back, including 
the wing coverts and crop, except a crescent shaped band of white pass- 
ing around the front of the crop, the paints or horns reaching within a 
short distance of the eye. The rib or colored patch coming down from 
the throat and forming the upper edge of the "Crescent" should be large 
and well defined. There should also be a few white feathers on the 
shjulders, which are desired, as nearly as may be, to fall separately one 
from the other in a small circular patch called the "Rose Pinion." These 
w'lite feathers should be free from the edge of the wing butt. In blacks 
and blues the color extends to the end of the tail. Blues should have 
black bars across the wings and tail. In all colored varieties, the flights, 
thighs, legs and feet, also the entire under part of the body from the keel, 
or line across the breast, should be pure white. Whites — Plumage pure 
white thruout. The four representative colors, excepting blue, should 
be deep and rich in hue. The blue should be light, bright and even color. 
Color of Eyes — In the pied varieties, a bright red or orange; in whites, dark 
or bull. 

English Carriers 

The Carrier, during the World War, got mixed up in name with 
the Homer by many people — even by Government Officials. The 
Carr.er is bred for show points only, not as a message carrier. The 
AVorking Homer was the War Messenger bird. 

The Carrier has often been termed the "King of Pigeons" but 
in the United States of late years it has been losing its popularity as 
other breeds are outnumbering it in the Show Room. They are 
largely bred, not only in the United States but thruout civilization. 
They are bred in nearly all colors to a high state of perfection. It 
is a highly intelligent bird with l^right eyes, alert and upright car- 

13 



riage, large eye ceres and prominent wattles. In the past the ditler- 
ent breeders seemed to give all their attention in perfecting the head 
points, thus sacrificing color and other qualities, but this folly seems 
to be past and now color and carriage are receiving attention with 
the result of a more uniform type as well as a nrore beautiful bird. 




English Carrier 



Flying Homer 
Working Homer or Racing Homer 

This variety has made rapid strides toward perfection, and when 
we see a well bred, well trained Flying Homer it reminds us of a 
well trained athlete ready and willing to go into the contest. The 
requirements are a bird with a nice, even-shaped head of medium 
length set on a neck of medium thickness without any appearance 
of gullet, widening at the shoulders. The chest should be large and 
full but not too deep in keel ; back short and flat, and broad across 
the shoulders, tapering off to the rump and tail ; short and straigiit 
breast bone; wings to have graceful butts, flight to be broad, strong 
and closely overlapped ; good secondary feather and covering : tail 



close fitting, having the appearance of one feather; carriage bold 
and alert, size medium and every point in proportion. 

Training the Flying or Racing Homer 

No variety of pigeons is so much attached to their home as the 
Homers, and such a thing as a Homer leaving his home loft and tak- 
ing up his abode in another, as others sometimes do, never occurs. 
The home instinct is bred in them ; indeed, so much of this instinct 
is impressed in their nature that well-bred ones rarely alight on any 
place but their own loft. Surrounding roofs of buildings are seldom 
used by them as a loafing place. The instinct for home in them 
makes them easily trained for long distance flights. No bird did such 
good service for humanity as these did during the World War both 
in the Army, Navy and Airplane service. When wires were down 
on land and boats were sinking at sea these trained messeno-ers were 




Flying Homer 



used, the message was hurriedly written, placed in a small tube and 
fastened to its leg. If pains are taken in training and conditioning 
them, long and rapid flights are easily made by them, and the num- 
ber of birds lost in long distance flights is very small if they have 
been carefully prepared. 

In training old or young birds for homing races, the birds should 
be allowed to take daily exercise around the home loft. They should 
not be allowed unlimited liberty at all times, but the bob wires with 
which each loft should be equipped should be opened about three 
times a day and the birds allowecl to exercise. In a short time they 
will become accustomed to being on the wing and make quite long 
flights from the loft and become thoroly acquainted with the sur- 
rounding country. Then they should be taken a few miles from the 
loft in a roomy basket or crate and liberated. They will at once 
circle and start for home. The next day they should be taken about 

15 



five miles from home in the same direction as the previous ciav and 
liberated. The day following- thev should be taken ten miles from 
home in the same direction and ahowed to fly home. Usually these 
preparatory flights are made from the east. After flying ten miles 
from the east, the birds are then taken over the same course from 
the v^rest, and after they are thoroly acquainted with the surrounding 
country from ten to twenty miles from the loft in an easterly and 
westerly direction, they can then be started for their southern route, 
five miles from home for the first flig-ht.* 

The day following they are taken ten miles from home ; \lie fol- 
lowing day twenty, after which they are g-iven a rest for a day or 
two, with exercise around the home loft about a half hour each dav. 
They can then be taken to the 50-mile station and liberated. After 
this they can be sent to the 100-mile station and then allowed one 
Aveek's rest at home, with daily exercise of at least one houi. At 
the end of the week they can be shipped to the two-hundred-mile 
station and then allowed another week's rest at home with daily ex- 




Trained Homers 



ercise of two hours. This system is continued by jumps of one hun- 
dred miles each week until the birds reach the five or six hundred 
mile station. After that, if extremely long distance flights are de- 
sired, they can be shipped to the station from AVhich the long- flight 
is desired. 

By carefully following this system of training, Homers fre- 
quently fly five hundred and even six hundred miles in one day. and 
cases are on record where birds have gone over eleven hundred miles, 
About the longest distance young birds should be trained is two hun- 
dred miles, altho they have been known to fly five hundred miles as 
youngsters, but we do not advise these long flights for them as they 
are rarely of any account as old birds. After they are thoroly ma- 
tured they are ready for extreme distances. 

The Show Homer 

The interest taken in the Show Hom'er seems to increase as the 
years pass, thus g^iving its supporters abundant reason for claiming 

11 



it erne <-'f the most pt:)pular of all the different breeds of pi§"eons. Type 
is the strong- point in the Show Homer. It matters not how per- 
fect the eye, or color, the value is very much impaired if the speci- 
men lacks type. Show Homers are bred in many dift'erent colors — 
Che(juers, Blue, Black, Red, Dun, Silver and Yellow and in solid 
colors we have Blue, Silver, Mealy, Yellow, Grizzle and White 

Standard 

Disqualifications — Thin or horn colored beak, coarse or ill-shaped wattle, 
soft pale cere, red, gravel, lemon or hard eye, thick throat or gullet, frill 
or open feathered neck, long, swan neck, long shaped body, crooked 
breast bone, long soft feather, heavy or wry tail, white or pied rump or 
hocks, and other mismarkings, long, storky legs, web feet, crooked claws 
or toes. Birds when exhibited should be in perfectly natural condition. 
To cut, trim, alter, or in any way improve by artificial means is alto- 
gether unallowable. Pied birds should be shown with their respective 
colors. 

Head — The head is one of the most important features, and requires each 
part to be separately described. When looked at from a side view it 
should form a perfectly even and unbroken curve from the back of the 
skall to the tip of the beak. From the front or top each side of the face 
should be well filled, the front and top skull also forming an unbroken 
curve from side to side. 




The Show Homer 

Beak— The beak should be black, both mandibles stout, but not massive, and 
so set that it does not interfere with the perfect curve of the head. The 
edge of under mandible must be quite straight, and both fit closely to- 
gether. From the tip of the beak to the corner of the eye it should 
measure about 1% inches. 

Wattles — These should be white, smooth and fine in texture, and shaped in 
the form of the letter V, the upper portion being clean cut out, and not 
filled in. With age there is a tendency to growth, but it should be only 
very slight, and for several years it should maintain naturally a fine and 
smooth appearance. No jewing should appear on the under manditle. 

Eye^The eye should be set as nearly as possible in the centre of the head, 
should be pearly white in color, bright and sparkling, giving the bird a 
wild appearance, as if always on the alert. 

Cere — This should be damson black, very fine and hard, having the appear- 
ance of a fine silk cord encircling the eye, and altho there is a slight 
tendency to growth, the cere should remain naturally fine and dark for 
several years. In the lighter colors, such as silvers and yellows, the beak 
and cere are mostly light in color; but it would be a great improvement 
if they could be gotten dark, as the mealies. 

17 



Throat — The throat must be clean cut out and perfectly free from thickness 
oi gullet. 

Neck — The neck should be short, thick at the base, but gradually tapering 
to the point where it joins the head. 

Body — The body should be short but strongly built, shoulders broad, chest 
well rounded, back broad, flat and straight, good depth of keel, the 
breast bone straight and vent bones close up, the whole body from the 
shoulders to the tail having a wedge-shaped appearance. 

Feather— Firm and hard. The flights should be short, strong and broad, well 
overlapping each other to the end, and when standing should be carried 
close up to the body. 

Tail — The tail should be short, thin and closely drawn together, straight and 
well carried. 

Legs — The legs should be short, strong and well set, and quite free from 
feathers on the legs and toes. 

Condition — The bird must be in perfect health, free from any deformity, and 
in a generally hard and firm condition. 

Carriage — This should be of bold, upstanding appearance, showing a capa- 
bility of great activity in all its movements. 

Cok)r — In Chequers the chief colors are blue, black, red, yellow, silver, dun. In 
all these the color should be sound thruout, and the chequering should 
be clear and distinct. The whole colors consist of blues, silvers, mealies 
and yellows, the color of each being sound thruout, with two broad and 
well-defined bars on the wings. There are also a few grizzles and plain 
whites. 

Dragoons 

Dragoons always command admiration wherever they are seen, 
whether it be in the show room or in the loft. Good quality in Dra- 
goons conies high, and it is claimed the demand is greater than the 
supply. They are hardy and prolific breeders ; stand confinement 
well. In many respects, as will be noticed by the illustration, they 
resemble the Antwerp, but have larger ceres and wattles. They 
are bred in Blues, Grizzles, Blacks, Whites, Duns, Silvers, Yellows 
and Chequers. 

Tumblers in General 

Pigeons have been kept both for fancy and utility for ages. The 
Romans were ardent fanciers of this beautiful bird, and the talk at 
the Forum as frequently dwelt upon the pigeon as it did upon the 
Senator. 

Pigeon fanciers are like poets, "born, not made." This trait in 
an individual manifests itself early and persists late. It is a magic 
touch that places the urchin and the sage in the same class. Certain- 
ly no fancy holds out the temptation that this one does. The possi- 
bilities are so great. The whims of the most fastidious can find sat- 
isfaction in the pigeon. This bird is produced in most everv con- 
ceivable shape and color. The delicate tints and penciling of their 
feathers seem hardly to be a part of a living bird. When one con- 
siders that these beautiful specimens of avian perfection evoluted 
from the aborigines, the Rock Doves, very evident is it then, what 
class of men labored to bring about this change. No other fanc\ can 
boast of so many arti'^tic and intelligent sympathizers as this one, 

18 



for the simple reason that inteUigence is necessary to produce and 
maintain, and an artistic temperament is required to appreciate the 
elegance thereof. 

Not only does the pigeon supply interesting combinations of col- 
or and shape, but action as well, viz., the lordly Pouter with his globe 
or the nervous Fantail with her toe-dance. But to me that sturdy 
little acrobat, the Tumbler, appeals most strongly. While this bird 
is produced in more colors and varied other morphological character- 
istics than we find in any other breed, his aerial gymnastics complete- 
ly eclipse the tame demonstration of the Pouter, the Fan, or any oth- 
er performing pigeon. 



^ 




Dragoon 



The Tumbler is bred in all the usual colors of pigeons, i. e., 
white, black, red, dun, silver, blue bar, saddle, also bald head, rose- 
wing, white-side, badge, beard, etc. He may be either long-faced 
or of the short-beaked variety ; clean-legged, stocking-legged, or 
muffed, and many pleasing combinations of the foregoing colors and 
other characteristics. As a matter of fact, you are aware that this 
bird turns backward somersaults, hence the name Tumbler. The 
mode and surroundings in which he chooses to perform this feat di- 
vides his family into still further sub-divisions, i. e., outside and in- 
side Tumblers. By outside Tumblers we refer to a bird that flies to 
some heig'ht before starting his daring performance. The inside 
Tumbler is a bird that will turn a somersault near the ground, thus 

19 



making it possible to do so within the aviary. This bird is popu- 
larly known as the parlor Tunilder and was first trained in Philadel- 
phia, Penna. 

Again the class is divided as to the nunil)er of somersaults, for 
instance, singles, as the word implies, a bird that turns a single som- 
ersault ; doubles, the meaning of which is evident ; roller, a perform- 
er that flies to a dizzy height and commences the roll, continuing 
same until he comes near to, or, as indeed is frecpiently the case, 
in actual contact with the ground or buildings, which in some in- 
stances makes it hazardous to allow such a specimen to perfi)rm. 
There are also inside Rollers. 

This is by no means the limit of the classifications of this most 
interesting bird, but it will suffice to recall to the mind of the reader 
the truly wide possibilities in breeding a pigeon of so diverse char- 
acteristics. Another very strong point in tavor of the Tumbler is 
his remarkable vitality. In winters characterized by much snow, 
when it is necessary to house Bantams and indeed larger poultry, 
frequently for weeks at a time ; this is quite superfluous in the case 
of the Tumbler. A number of the clean-legged variety which the 
author allowed to fly at liberty during such times would, with im- 
punity, walk about on the snow% the temperature near zero, flip- 
])ing the dry snow first one way and then the other in search of 
feed tossed to them for the purpose of observing their actions. 

I have yet to see the first pair of Tumblers that are not good 
feeders, rearing their young without any trt)ul)le Avhatsoever. This 
is a very essential qualification which is frequently lacking in other 
fancy breeds. I know quite a few fanciers who make it a routine 
practice to shift certain of their fancy pigeon eg"gs to birds of known 
feeding ability. This, to say the least, is contusing and expensive, 
necessitating the sustaining of a surplus amount of stock, and per- 
haps these foster parents are not so obliging as to set about the task 
of incubation at the proper time, another source of annoyance. 

When a fancier has spent much time and money to produce a 
pair of birds wdiich he thinks will ]>reed just the progeny he wants, 
how eagerly he watches the eggs, and when pipped he knows there 
'is a whinner in each shell. A few days later he finds his winners 
mashed flat as a flitter — dead-^starved. Then it is he realizes that 
the parents are no feeders, and if he expects any young from them 
they must be reared by other birds. With Tumblers this objection- 
able feature is obviated. 

To summarize, the hardy characteristics and ample feeding pro- 
clivities of the Tumbler recommend him and assure success to the 
amateur breeder as well as the veteran. His neat, compact bill, 
grand head and eye, dainty coloring and pleasing combinations of 
same and other bodily characteristics appeal to the artistic, while 
his marvelous acrobatic achievements champion him the prince of 
entertainers. 

Performing Tumblers 

The Single performer should make but one turn, consisting of 
a straight backward somersault, (similar to the human acrobat.) 

20 



The turn should be on a straight Hue backward (not sidewise) and 
at each turn the bird should land square on its feet. Performance 
should be noiseless and free from fluttering of wings. The single 
perfc)rmer should clear the floor at each turn, but the closer the 
])ettei*. 

'J'he Doulde performer should make two successive turns and as 
noiseless and free from fluttering of wings as possible. The turns 
should be straight backward (not sideAvise). The bird should clear 
the floor, but the closer the better, and land scjuare on its feet. 

The Roller performer s'hould make a series. or number of straight 
l)ackward turns ; these turns or somersaults to be on a straight line, 
backward (not sidewise) and as free from flutter of wings as possible. 
The performance of the Roller should be down on the floor, and at 
no time should the bird rise high enough to clear the floor while 
turning. Performance should be an actual roll on the floor. There 
are also outside Tumblers described under heading, "Favorite \'arie- 
ties." 

Colors — Selfs : black, yellow, dun and white. Mottles : red, 
black, yellow, dun and white. Black Self: Color deep and sound 
showing a green metallic lustre. Beak black. Red Self : Color deep, 
red bronzy hackle showing free from green. Beak flesh color. Yel- 
low Self : Color rich yellow, even thruout, pinkish bronze hackle 
showing free from green. Beak flesh color. Dun Self : \'ary in 
shade, but must be clear and even thruout, either light, dark or med- 
ium. Beak, horn color. Mottles : Color sound and even thruout. 
The pinion mottlings to be white and nearly circular, evenh- dis- 
tributed. Butts free from white. The back markings should be V 
shaped, well and evenly mottled. Beak as in solids. Splashes : Well 
spangled with white, and color of the variety all over the body. Wing* 
primaries and tail solid. Beak as in solids. 

Standard 

Disqualifications — Dark or broken eyes, or feathers below the hock. 

Beak — Close fitting, straight, of medium length. 

Wattle — Neat, fine in texture. 

Skul! — Round, rather high in front. 

Eyes — Pearl, centrally located. 

Cere — Small, fine in texture. 

Neck — Medium length, broad at base, tapering to threat. 

Body — Short, stout and wedge shaped, prominent and wide in chest. 

Flights — Closely set, short and carried on the tail. 

Tail — Closely folded and wedge shape. 

Legs — Stout and well set, medium length. 

Carriage — Sprightly, upright, bold and jaunty. 

Feather — Clean, close and tight fitting. 

Bald Head! Tumblers 

The head, primary flights, tail and body color, downward from 
the breast-bone, should be white. The line of demarcation on the 
head should start from slightly under the lower mandible, pass close 
under the eye and rise gradually and evenly to the back of the head. 
Beak flesh color in all varieties. 

21 



English Turbits 

Too much cannot be said of the English Turbit, the aristocrat of 
the pigeon family, which has always kept a strong hold on the fanci- 
er, who has an eye for the beautiful, for surely no other variety 
possesses so much real beauty as is combined in a thorobred Turbit. 
Their beautiful wing color, their large appealing eyes and haughty 
carriage are a delight to all lovers of birds, and for fondling, the 
Turbit has no equal among birds, for they are docile by nature, can 
be picked up anywhere in the loft if treated gently, and like to trass 
and strut and be played with. I have had birds so tame that they 
would light on me and follow me around the loft eating from niy 
hand. 

You may ask: "What are they good for?" If you do not like 
pets I will answer that they are good for nothing. They will get 
you out of bed a little earlier to give them a little attention, and 




English Turbit 

you will fuss with them noon and evening, which is just what you 
need to drive dull care away. 

If you have never kept pigeons, I'd advise you to try it, but get 
the best pair you can. It will take you a season to learn the A. B. 
C. of Turbit breeding, and you want a good pair for there is as much 
difference in pigeons as there is in humans. And the better the breed 
the better results you will get — all things being equal. 

The essentials are a dry place to keep them in, plenty of fresh 
air and fresh water, no draughts, good, clean food, a first class health 
grit and care as to lice and rats. Do not feed any more than the 
birds will eat up clean. 

No variety of pigeons commands higher prices than a good 
thorobred Turbit, and winners at large shows have sold for, from 
$200.00 to $300.00 each. A pair of breeders that will not command 
$25.00 are likely to be ordinary birds. 

Learn first to fancy the Turbit, then learn to care for them suc- 
cessfully and raise the young, then buy one or two good pairs in 

22 



preference to ten ordinary pairs, and with intelligent mating" you 
will have good results and be successful. 

The accompanying cut of an English Turbit hen will give you 
some idea of their beauty, and you may conclude for yourself wheth- 
er you like the English or home-grown the better. England has 
years of advantage over us in breeding this handsome bird, but many 
a good one has been broug'ht here, and many good birds are raised 
in this country today. However Turbits are not so generally raised 
here as in England for some reason or other, and the breeders of 




Magpie 



strictly high class blue-blood Turbits in this country today can be 
counted on your fingers. 

The fancier who will take up the Turbit and hold to his oars 
until he reaches the headwaters of Turbit possibilities will make a 
name for himself. Men like Kline, Lenhart, Ulrich, Orr, Parson, 
Feather, Hart, Mclntyre and others will go down in the history of 
the American advancement of this favorite bird. 

Magpies 

To keep Magpies is to love them. Their charming colors, alert- 
ness, delicate and symm,etrical form and the manner in which they 
care for themselves and their young endear them to their owners. 

23 



The sketch which appears with this article will convey to the reader 
who knows little or nothing about pigeons, the handsome outlines 
and lady-like form of the Magpie, which is oft times referred to as 
the "Queen of Pigeons." The high class specimens are more slender 
in neck and body than the foregoing sketch. 

They are bred in Black, Red, Yellow, Blue, Silver and Dun. The 
main points of the Magpie are so clearly defined in the sketch ac- 
companying the article that it seems unnecessary to call any particu- 
lar attention to them. The beautiful shape of skull, the fine texture 
of beak and wattle, the small bold eye, with fine choral cere, the long- 
fine neck, the elegant outline of body, fine folded tails and game-like 
legs and feet are placed in front of the fancier in such a masterful 
w'ay that to see them is to admire them. 

Satinettes and Blondinettes 

The Satinettes and Blondinettes are one of the oldest varieties 
of pigeons in existence, but just where they originated is a mystery, 




Blondinettes 

and they belong to that group of pigeons kncnvn as Oriental Frills. 
As their name implies, it is presumed they had their origin in the 
Far East. The Satinettes and Blondinettes are very much alike. 
The Blondinette may be termed a dark-bodied bird and the Satinette 
a white-bodied bird, with only colored shoulders and tails. The 
Blondinette is laced over the entire body and the Satinette on the 
shoulders. The lacing should be regular and free from moss, the 
ground color being white. The Barred birds in both varieties should 
have spot tail with pure white l)oas, edged with a dark line with the 
distinction in the markiu"; as in the laced birds. 



Black Blondinettes 

These are sub-varieties of the Oriental Frills. The lacing is 
more pronounced and conspicuous. Each feather is evenly edged 
with its respective colors varying from heavy to fine and from dark 

24 



to light lacing-. Tail and flights fairly edged thruout and neck also 
fairly variegated. Breast, back, under part, thighs and muffs also 
edged. 

English Owls 

The English Owls are not without a host of supporters, wdio 
claim them to be just as good, just as pretty as any variety. We find 
them most plentiful in blue, silver and dun, while occasionally we see 
a few blacks, chequers and creams. The good English Owd must 
have a fine dark eye cere, neat and shapely wattle, rich red eye, full 
gullet and abundance of frill. The head must be rovmd, full and 
wide, have plenty of top skull and full frontal. The l)eak should be 
stout and well set and have a downward appearance, ujiper and low- 




The English Owl 

er mandibles close fitting w^ith dividing line pointing to the center 
of the eye. The carriage is one of the main features, as is also short- 
ness of feather. 

Trumpeters 

The Trumpeters are a most peculiar and interesting variety. 
I'hey were first imported into the United States about 1875. They 
are natives of Asia, where they are bred in the ]\Iosques by the 
priests. They are bred in Blacks, Whites, Chequers and Mottles. 
They should stand low in the legs, very heavily feathered, well spread 
clear to the toe nails. The main features are the rose and shell. 
The rose should be large, round, smooth and even, with a nice droop 
covering the beak and eyes, shell standing well up at back and curv- 
ed forward, extending from eye to eye. One of the peculiarities of 
the Trumpeters is the coo, and if once heard it is seldom forgotten. 
Tt is possibly from this that they derived their name. 

Trumpeters are described by Moore as well known in his time, 
and as deriving their name from the peculiar voice; the coo being 

25 



very frequent, loud and abrupt. Their other properties are rose, 
crest, and foot-feather. The crest should resemble that of the shell 
crested Turbit, Nun and other pigeons, or otherwise the edge of a 
shell standing upright, and extending round the back of the head 
till nearly level with the eyes. It should not lie down, or fit close 
like the hood of a Jacobin, but stand upright, clear away from the 
head; and when it does this, the more developed it is the better. 
The rose is a circular top-knot or crest on the top of the head, spread- 
ing out as evenly as possible on all sides from a central point in the 
middle. The legs are heavily vulture-hocked, and the shanks them- 
selves furnished with very long quill feathers. 

The old style of English Trumpeters excelled in foot-feather, 
but rose and crest were poor. About i860, or soon after, however. 




Trumpeter 



Messrs. John Baily and Son began to import birds from Russia, with 
enormous development of rose and crest, so far superior that they 
beat all the old stock. Their foot-feather was less developed; but 
this point has been improved, and the Russian Trumpeter is now the 
accepted standard. The eyes are pearl, and the colors black, white, 
black-mottled and splashe'd. It is -a long feathered bird, loose in 
feather, and being also large in body, appears very large in size. 
Nothing can be more stately than the way the Trumpeter cock walks 
about when courting his hen. 

Trumpeters deserve to be considered a very high class of pigeon, 
Init are not general favorites, being unfortunately very delicate. It 
is prol)ably not the climate — since they come from Russia — but more 
likely the confinement in which they are kept, which is too much 
for them. Be the cause what it may, imported birds are peculiarly 

26 



liable to consumption, for which it might be well to try small 
doses of hypophosphite of soda. 

The lighter mottles and splashes do not look nearly so attrac- 
tive as blacks and the orthodox mottle, or rather approach to it, for 
we have never yet seen a really good rose-mottled Trumpeter. The 
most likely plan of breeding such would be to go on matching blacks 
with better mottles. 

In breeding for fancy properties the voice of the Trumpeter has 
been nearly lost, in many birds entirely so. It is never taken into 
consideration in judging. There is, however, a true laughing or 
trumpeting pigeon, with clean legs, not only described by Aloore, 
but later by Brent ; and in 1878 a pair of these birds was shown by 
Mr. Betty at a meeting of the National Peristeronic Society. They 
were blue-chec|uered, very small, dove-headed, and clean-legged. 

Jacobins 

The Jacobin, like the Fantail, depends on its attractiveness and 
wonderful formation of feather for its popularity and demand. The 
Fantail is possibly better known to the novice than the Jacobin on 
account of its wonderful formation of tail, which even the novice 
can distinguish and thus place the name to the bird. However, the 
Fantail can claim no greater army of enthusiasts than the Jacobin. 
The rivalry among the Jacobin breeders of the present is almost 
equal to that of any other variety, and rightly so, for there are rea- 
sons why it should be. The Jacobin is a hearty and prolific pigeon 
and requires but little assistance to rear its own young. In other 
words, they are considered to be fairly good workers. This latter 
point should be emphasized, for it is far too commonly assumed that 
a pair of feeders is necessary for each pair of Jacobins. Many of 
the Jacobin fanciers claim that they can successfully rear every bird 
they have, but that a few pairs of feeders will rear many a bird 
which gets a bad start from its parents or whose parents go to nest 
too soon. 

The Jacobin is a peculiar variety and can never be improved, 
nor its characteristics increased by crossing with any other variety 
of pigeon. No small advantage is this, when one looks around and 
sees the evil results of such breaks in some favorite varieties of the 
day. The day has long passed when selection and perseverance on 
the part of the breeder will overcome every difficulty, however ob- 
stinate it may be, and the present day Jacobin is really a work of 
art, made so by years of careful mating and breeding to bring about 
the desired result and the truly wonderful feather formation that 
we see on nearly every specimen that adorns our exhibitions. No 
variety has a more high-bred appearance than the Jacobin when he 
is in full dress array. For the information of the novice, let us 
briefly describe the chief point of this beautiful variety. Bv com- 
mon consent the most important point in a good Jacobin is the hood. 
This should be smooth, and thick in substance of feather, fitting al- 
most closely to the head, reaching forward as far as possible to the 
front of the head and merging without break into the mane behind 

27 




28 



and the chain at cither cheek. The chain should spring in a swee()- 
ing curve on either side from its junction with the hood, completely 
covering the big eyes and evenly meeting on both sides, reaching 
as far down the breast as possible. The mane shoidd be well sprung 
into an arch shape from its junction with the back of the hood. The 
feathers should be thick and smooth and meeting from either side 
in a graceful curved line without a break . The center from which 
the feathers radiate at the side of the neck to form the main chain 
is known as the rose. The tail and ten flight feathers on either side 
should be white ; the remainder of the body in colored varieties 
shoulfl be lustrous in color, whether red, black or A-ellow. White or 




Archangel 



pearly eyes, long flights and tail, slim and tapering body and erect 
carriage make up the remaining properties of the fascinating 
Jacobins. 

Archangels 

Of all the different varieties of pigeons with their great divers- 
ity of colors, none compares with the Archangel in richness. Just 
how they were named is a mystery, but there is a town in Russia by 
this name, and it is claimed they were originated there. In the Far 
East, where most of the varieties of fancy pigeons originated, the 
people are very devout, and we have many birds named after their 
teachers, such as Nuns, Jacobins, Priests, and hence it is presumed 
that they also named the Archangel on account of its richness in 
color. It is one of the most attractive varieties that we have, atid 
they are bred to a high state of perfection. It has an upright car- 

29 




s 

I \ 



'^^<\\\ 



30 



riage, long head, straight, slender beak. Tlie wings are a dark brown 
while the neck, head, breast and bnst are a rich bronze, giving them 
a burnished appearance. 

Fantails 

Of all the different varieties of pigeons possibly none attract the 
attention of the visitors at our leading shows more than the Fantails. 
It is conceded by all that this is one of the most interesting of all 
fancy varieties of pigeons. As we walk down the aisles of our differ- 
ent shows, we notice they are usually admired. Their aristocratic 
carriage, their graceful steps and that peculiar and striking motion 
of head and neck are their source of attraction and admiration. They 




Fantail 



constantly draw forth from the uninitiated the most amusing com- 
ments and remarks. 

The Fantail, by nature, is not wild and this fact together with 
its peculiar characteristics makes it a general favorite. They 
are very easily tamed and quickly become attached to their owners. 
Another thing Which helps to increase the popularity from an ex- 
hibitor's point of view is that one need not be a professional before 
being able to tell the good ones from the inferior birds and to pick 
out his show specimens. They not only please those who keep them 
solely for the pleasure of seeing them flying about their loft but they 
appeal strongly to all who take a delight in exhibiting and here the 
question may be asked, why? Because it is a variety that is not dif- 
ficult to l)reed : that is to say, one need not serve an apprenticeship 



of several years l)y keeping the l:)ir(ls constantly before him in brder 
to distinguish the exhibition birds. 

The Fans are as a rule good mothers and fathers and so require 
no foster parents to rear their young, as is the case with some of 
the short billed varieties. Therefore the great expense of having 
extra lofts and retaining other birds to rear the young is abolished. 
Contrary to much that has been said, the Fantail requires no faking 
for exhibition purposes. There are possibly many who will question 
this statement and ask, "What about their tails?" True enough, the 
tail of a Fan is often faked, but you need not resort to this method 
to get the good exhibition tails. The birds can be and are bred with 
tails that re(|uire no manipulation to enable them to win in fast ccnn- 




Swaliow 

pany, and it is said that the birds whose tails are not faked usually 
win over those that have been tampered with. 

The novice may, therefore, venture to take uj) this deliglitful 
breed with hopeful expectation of success, provided he uses judg- 
ment in securing the parent stock and is careful with his matings. 
The training to get the retjuired carriage of the Fantail is an art that 
you will very soon become acc\istomed to and delighted with as well. 

Fans are bred in many different colors, the most popular, how- 
ever, being the Whites, Blacks, Blues, Reds, Yellow, as well as the 
Saddle Backs. The Whites, as usual, have maintained the lead and 
are possibly the largest class of any of the Fans at the larger sb.ows. 
They have been bred to such a high state of perfection that it is 
really difficult to find fault with many of the winning specimens. 
The Blacks are not ro ]jo])ular as the Whites, but nevertheless the 

32 



quality is not far behind. Blues, like the Blacks, are not bred very 
extensively, and the quality, as usual, is not that of the Blacks or 
Whites. Saddles are quite plentiful, generally having fair classes at 
the shows, with uniform quality but nothing in comparison with 
the White variety. The Reds and the Yellows have made no ad- 
vancement in popularity for the past several years, and about the 
same size classes are seen at the shows and about the same interest 
taken as a number of years ago. It is claimed by some of the lead- 
ing breeders that the Reds and Yellows are very dilihcult to breed. 
The wide-spread popularity of the Fantails makes them in demand, 
and the fanciers of any of the different varieties have little trouble 
in disposing of their surplus stock. 

The Fantail should stand on tiptoe with its head back in a grace- 
ful manner resting on the cushion, chest upright, wing set fairly low 




Barb 



with the flights cleaving the lowest tail feathers. Tail should have 
thirty-six or more feathers overlapping each other. Should have a 
small round, compact body, the chest round like a ball. 

Swallows 

On account of their beautiful marking, swallows are very hand- 
some birds ; extensively bred and popular. They get their name from 
their close resemblance to the Sea Swallow. They have hazel col- 
ored eyes, long slender beak, shell crests and are heavily feathered 
on toes and legs. 

Their body color is white with colored wings and toe feathers. 



33 



Barbs 

The Barb is by no means the prettiest of fancy pigeons. How- 
ever, it is a hardy variety, a fairly good breeder and not at all diffi- 
cult to manage with reasonable care. One of the main features to 
watch in breeding Barbs is to prevent ulceration of the wattles, a 
disease to which all wattled varieties are subject. This can be pre- 
vented by sponging the wattles to remove the gummy exudation 
which is natural to all the wattled varieties. The main point in 
breeding the Barb is the head ; the eye wattles are so large th:tt it 
cannot see ahead or behind, thus making it an easy prey to its 
enemies. 

They are bred in different colors ; reds, blacks and yellows l:)eing 
the most popular. 

Scanderoons 

While the Scanderoon has considerable contrast in. its markings, 
it is not a very popular breed ; very few being on exhibition in the 




Scanderoon 

show room. Tiiis is a very old variety of pigeon and is supposed to 
have originated in the Southern portion of Asiatic Turkey. 

Mr. Harry M. Smith in the Feathered World says : "Scanderoons- 
the hardiest of the hardy— rear their own youngsters well, so require 
no feeders, stand any amount of showing, and are always as fresh 
as fresh paint. Surely this is the pigeon for the novice, for who can 
say he has not enough points to 'breed for? 

"What a lovely contrast there is in the black pied, especially 
when the black is really black and very lustrous — not the ob ject i. en- 
able sooty-blue one sometimes sees — and the white, pure and of 
satin like lustre. 

"We have birds with good curve of beak, but no substance, and 
a Scanderoon is little better than a Show Homer, without the latter. 
There must be substance of beak and a narrow skull — a verv difficult 

34 



combination to produce ; some say impossible, and still breed from 
the old type of heavy skulled, duck shaped monstrosities with enough 
eye-cere and wattle to claim near relationship to the Carrier. These 
birds, too, as a rule, are long in feather, and so present a very un- 
sightly appearance in the show pen. 

"A good Scanderoon should be short in feather, have a bold, up- 
right carriage, and a thorobred, racy appearance. Training in a pen, 
a few weeks before showing, will improve the carriage, but a bad 
croucher will never make a show bird — carriage is bred, not made. 

"A long face, wattle of almond shape, and eye-cere of the bright- 
est red — both fine in texture — are very necessary, especially as 




At Home 



coarseness increases rapidly with age and shortens the successful 
show career of many an otherwise good bird. 

"Perhaps the most difficult property to produce is that beautiful 
unbroken curve from the skull to the end of the beak, with both 
mandibles in unison and of almost ec|ual strength. 'Faked as voung- 
sters !' Perhaps ; but such can easily be detected, as there ahvavs ap- 
pears to be a sudden break in the curve of the under mandible, and 
the beak is more or less open, and sometimes crossed. 

"Leave it alone ; no good can come from such tricks. 'Strivino- 
to better, oft we mar what's well.' 

35 



"In spite of all that has been \vritten against early breeding, 1 
have practiced it with good results in Scanderoons. The early eggs 
have been fertile and I have a fair percentage of young. 

"In conclusion, I would say, Scanderoons require very little at- 
tention, are as hardy as nails, and free breeders — once kept, never 
given up." 

Runts 

The Runt is the largest bird of the pigeon family. How it re- 
ceived the name of Runt is not mentioned by any of the early writ- 
ers, not even by John Moore in 1735 nor by Eaton, Brent or Will- 
oughby. 

Moore in his writings shows, by illustrations, first the Leghorn 
Runt — a large bird with an elevated tail. Even in those days few 




Runt 



"were exhibited that weighed less than two pounds each. These early 
writers also mention a Spanish Runt. The illustrations are similar 
to the Leghorn, except the tail, which is not erect but nearly touches 
the ground. Lewis Wright states on page 195 of his book, that the 
Runt is simply an immensely large common pigeon and that prizes 
usually are given for weight alone. 

We have seen them weighing two pounds nine ounces each. The 
colors shown are blue with black bars and silver with brown bars. 
By crossing them with common pigeons, a mongrel Runt has been 
])r()duced called by the French, "Pigeons Mondains." 

36 



The Runt most bred in the United States is the Engdish Runt. 
At present there is a difference of opinion in regard to the color of 
the back. The Eng;lish hold to the old color of the blues, that is, a 
blue with a white rump, while some Americans are striving for a 
blue rump. In fact, the writer saw some at Madison Scjuare Garden 
Show having rumps of the same even blue found in good Dragoons 
and Show Homers. 

The Standard of Perfection l)y the American Runt Club calls for 
blue Rumps. 




This is a heavy type Dragoon and is sometimes used for scjuab- 
bing. The squabs are plump and larger than the Homers when the 
large cobby type of Dragoon breeder is used. 



37 



Utility Pigeons 



Squab Raisers 

Utility Pigeons are the large breeds that raise marketable squabs 
(young- pigeons four weeks old) and plenty of them. Not only are 
they used as squabbers but are admired for their dift'erent types and 
markings, of which more are exhibited in the U. S. Shows than 
abroad. Some of the show types change hands at good prices, so the 
utility pigeon is a dual-purpose breed and has its standard as well as 
the strictly fancy breeds. This appeals to many engaged in pigeon 
keeping, because any young, lacking in type or color, can be eaten or 
sold for eating purposes. 

Squab Raising as a Business 

Squab Raising has ahva}'s l)een highly prohtable, except during 
the World War. Then pigeon raisers made .very little money. Wheat 
was in great demand ; the price of feed advanced greatly ; banquets 
were few ; steamships, carrying tourists a rarity, and th^f efore the 
price of squabs did not advance in proportion to the advance in feed. 
Since the ending of the war, the price of squabs is considerably high- 
er than ever before and all those engaged in the industry are making- 
money and always have a ready market waiting for them. If they 
have \v'j private trade, commission men are always anxious to get 
squabs. In fact, most of them are sold to commission men. Of 
late years the straight breeds are used more than crosses. Why -use 
crosses, when there are so many straight breeds possessing every- 
thing any one can desire. The following are a few of the breeds with 
the weight of the squabs they produce. 

Hcimers — 6 to 9 pounds to the dozen. 

I'olish Lynx — 8 to 12 pounds to the dozen. 

Carneaux — 10 to 14 pounds to the dozen. 

Maltese — 10 to 14 pounds to the dozen. 

Hungarians — 11 to 15 pounds to the dozen. 

Austrian Strassers — 12 to 16 pounds to the dozen. 

^^'hite Kings — 12 to 18 pounds to the dozen. 

Mondaines — 17 to 22 pounds to the dozen. 

Runts — 22 to 28 pounds to the dozen. 

These are only approximate weights, as some run higher and 
some lower than these figures. 

The novice will ask which is the best? That c[uestion, answer- 
ed by a pigeon man raising Homers, will be, "Homers." While the 
man, raising Rimts, ^^•ill say, "Runts." Each is attached to his favor- 
ite, as a mother to her child — no baby is like hers. So the man rais- 
ing squal)s for market is attached to his particular kind of pigeon, 
the same as the fancier to his fancv birds. 



The various breeds will be described as we go along", but right 
here we will say the smallest birds mentioned breed the most squabs, 
while the largest birds mentioned breed the fewest squabs, which is 
natural. Another point is the price, and here again the rule is, the 
smaller the bird the lower the price. Other points to consider — 
"Should I buy the smallest breed when a medium size can be kept 
in the same number of nests and the same size house?" To this 
question we answer it is better to pay a little more for the larger 
sized breeders. For Runts, you must expect to pay a good price and 
also rigure on more space to house theni in, as they require plenty 
of room. 

The largest squab plants prefer the Carneau and keep more of 
t.iern than of any other breed ; claiming that the Carneaux never 
rase dark skinned squabs and run on an average of twelve pounds 
to the dozen. Hotel keepers do not wish to serve any larger squabs, 
as they would be obliged to charge such a high price, their patrons 
would not order them. It is claimed they will raise more pounds of 
squabs per pair of breeders than any other bird. 

The Polish Lynx is admired for its markings as well as for its 
cob'y liuild and the plump squabs it raises. 

The Hungarian enthusiast claims for the bird that "it raises the 
goivlcn skin squab." 

xhe Austrian Strasser and Maltese are praised for their short, 
broa.lback, plump squabs. 

Tie White King is praised for its beautiful white feathers and 
lari.;e scjualjs. 

Vhe ]\Iondaine is praised for larger squabs than the White King 
and ■ "eeds more squabs than the Runt, of wdiich blood it has a good 
spri-Tkling. 

-he Runt being the largest, produces the largest squabs but 
ver;>- fe\' who raise Runts are selling sc^uabs wdien they can raise 
ther.j to breeding" age and sell for breeders or show purposes at a 
big j.rice. 

Raisiig squabs for market is one of the most fascinating", profit- 
able and ;)leasant occupations one can possibly enter into. 

The Editor of Leslie's Weekly, hearing so much about the squab 
indu~iry and desiring to give information to the public started to get 
the real fa;ts and learn something of the industry, first by going into 
the rnarke s where he could see money changing hands between the 
buyers, selers and producers of squabs. He was surprised when he 
saw how cuickly squabs were sold, the high prices paid and the 
amc'imts sc promptly paid the shippers. After making inquiries for 
informatiorj among the New York commission men, relative to the 
industry, he was directed to the author. 

A Few Points on Squab Raising 

Buy yomg mated birds from a squab raiser. 
Keep pigeons in standard houses. 

Pigeons ay two eggs which hatch in seventeen days. 

39 



Squabs are ready for market when twenty-eight clays old. 

One pair of pigeons will raise six to ten pairs of squabs a }'ear. 

Pigeons raise squabs summer and winter. 

The feathers bring a good price, including the flights. 

The pigeons' droppings sell at good prices per hundredweight. 

Mr. Howard Butcher, a veteran pigeon keeper at New Britain, 
Penna. has between four and five thousand utility breeders and re- 
ceives $1.05 per pound for dressed squabs. Some squab raisers with 
special trade receive $1.25 per pound in winter and a less price in 
summer. It costs $3.00 to $3.50 for grain to feed a pair of breeders 
a year. 

Some large squab farms use 40% screenings, 409^ whole corr, 
20% Peas. Grit should be kept in a separate container. 

Houses should be white-washed in August. 

Nests should be cleaned when the squabs are removed. 

Sloppy nests should be cleaned as soon as noticed and tl;en 
should be sprinkled with air slaked lime ; also sprinkle around tlTem 
and wherever there is dampness. / 

Never have a damp floor. Clean floors once a month. 

JDouble floors with special building paper between are se.'dom 
damp. 

Tar felt should never be used between double floors or /nside 
of a building, because floors of this kind gather frost in winter; thaw 
out in warm weather and cause dampness. ' 

Remove a dead squab or bad egg as soon as noticed. / 

Do not use moldy feed. / 

Aloldy feed will cause disease. 

Pigeons, when properly fed and housed, contract few diseases. 

Don't expect plump squabs when you feed late. ( 

The earlier the feeding time the plumper the squabs. 

Never take "peepers" away from breeders until they are a week 
old, as the old birds should disgorge all "pigeon milk." , 

Never raise the youngsters from young breeders until they have 
bred two or three pairs of sc^uabs. 

Never allow youngsters to grow up in the same lT^)Use with 
breeders. 

Have a system 1)\' which }ou will know what every piir of birds 
is doing, the good workers as well as the poor ones. / 

Weed, weed, weed out the drones ! | 

Don't neglect the bathing water. It is the birds' tay of pre- 
venting lice. 

Give them tobacco stems with which to l^uild their nests ; never 
hay, straw or anything hollow, to encourage lice. / 

Pigeons are not infested with lice as chickens are. 

Pigeons build their own nests and feed their owij young. 

40 



Thorobred Squab-Raising Homers 

Note the short thick legs, broad breast and deep-keel, a cobby 
built Homer, the only type of Homer that should be used for squab 
production. 

A point to remember is that flying pigeon men discard the heavy, 
deep-keel, short, cobby built Homers. These are just the kind the 




Homer 



squab raiser wants. Blues and light colored checkers are best suited 
for the purpose. They produce the big, meaty breasted squabs. 

Present Day Carneaux 

The Carneau is a par-excellent bird for both fancy and utility 
purposes and one never tires singing its praises. "If you do not care 
to show them, you can eat 'em," which cannot be said of many fancy 
birds as the latter are small or have dark skinned squabs, and do not 
pay for their feed when used for eating purposes ; whereas a big fat 
Carneau that is ofif on feather color makes a good meal. 

The present Carneaux bred in the United States are very ap- 
propriately termed "The American Beauties," due to the fact that 
the imported birds have been bred up to an ideal American Standard, 
improving the stock in size, symmetry, color and breeding qualities 
until the American type is far superior to the imported. 

Name — Carneau" (Carno). Plural — Carneaux (Carnose) is deriv- 
ed from the French. The French-English dictionary gives the fol- 
lowing: Carmine (the red coloring principle of Cochineal) Carna- 
tion, natural flesh color, Carnu, S. M. PI. V. Carnal (t. of arts, Carne. 
3; adj. of carnation color.) Carneaux. S. M. PI. Red vent holes in a 
porcelain furnace. Cardinal Bird (Cardinalis) a beautiful bird of 
the Finch family, deep red in color. The French gave the name 
"Carneau" because the bird is mostly red. Words ending in "neau" 
and "eaux" are significant of the French. However, such words are 
now in common use in English speaking countries, and form their 
plurals by adding "x", which is the case in Carneau. 

Origin — The best authorities we have are Brent and Willough- 
by ; traced by Mr. Frank Lee Miles. Brent, in his writings, mentions 
a large prolific red pigeon also a golden yellow one. Willoughby 
mentions a smaller pigeon than the Runt but much more prolific and 

41 



adept on the wing. France rightfully claims to be the first to give 
thpse birds prominence for their great squab producing qualities. 
The name CARNEAU finds its first use there. Belgium early bred 
the bird in great numbers. English wood-cuts over three hundred 
years ago show a large red and also a yellow pigeon closely re- 
sembling the Carneau. The first authentic record of Carneaux being 
imported into the United States was July 4th, 1900 by Mr. George 
Hughes of Bridgeton, N. J. 

Mr. Frank Lee Miles of Danville, Pa., organized the Inter- 
national Carneau Club and thru his efforts made it very popular as 
a show bird and also as a utility bird. 

Show Carneaux — For show purposes it has been exhibited in 
the following classes : Red, Yellow, Red Rosewing, Red Mottle, and 
White-Sides, Yellow Rosewing, Yellow Mottles, White with orange 
eyes. Black and Dun. They are greatly admired at the leading shows 
by the general public. 

Utility — For squab production they have proven to be the best. 
There are more Carneaux being bred in most squab producing plants 
thruout the country than any other variety of birds. Besides being 
a beautiful bird to look at, it is extremely easily handled. Being of 
a domestic nature, there is less quarreling among them and more 
attention is given to raising their young, feeding and fattening them 
to the limit,"thus producing squabs of good flavor and firm meat in 
four weeks' time. 

They produce more sc^uabs per year than any other variety of 
its size and produce more weight, pound for pound, than any others. 
Its flesh is even better than the white squab, having a slightly yel- 
lowish tinge, which is looked upon with great favor — seldom, indeed, 
is a dark skinned squab seen. With proper breeding stock, squabs 
weigh, on an average, one pound each, which is the ideal high class 
restaurant-size s(]ual). Half a squab is usually given at a serving. 
A half pound squab with other food is as much as the average man 
cares to eat at one time. 

Universal Carneau Standard 

As Adopted by International Carneau Club, United Carneau Breeders Assn., 
Dixie Pigeon Association 

In jud^ng all Carneaux it should be remembered that Carneaux are ex- 
hibition and "utility birds" used for squab-breeding purposes. They consist 
of three decided colors — red, yellow and white. They may be all red, all yel- 
low, all white, or commingling colors of red and white or yellow and white. 

Points of Perfection, Type and Construction of all Carneaux 

Head — Prominent, strong and rounding from wattle to above eye, then grad- 
ually inclined to nape of neck. Broad between eyes, free from slender 
or snake-like shape; all parts in perfect keeping with the proportions 
of the body. Free from "Tumbler-like" appearance. 

Eye — Large and prominent, located a little to the front of the center of 
the head. 

Iris — Color, orange, shading to red. 

Cere — Not too conspicuous, free from coarseness. Color, either cream, a 
flesh shade or red. 

42 



Beak — Stout, medium in length, showing no ill shape. Color, light shade of 
cow-horn; may be darker at base, clear of all stain or black beak. (This 
must not be construed to legislate against dark color or pigment showing 
in beak of red, or red and white birds.) 

Wattle — Smooth, V-shaped; free from coarseness. Color, cream or light 
flesh (epidermis) shade. 

Neck — Broad across shoulders, straight in line to tip of tail. 

Wings — Strong in proportion. Butts not prominent nor conspicuous. Flights 
carried over tail feathers and in keeping with body; not too long. 




Standard Type Carneau 



Tail — In keeping with body; not too long or "Runt-like;" extending not over 
an inch and a half beyond flights; nearly square at end (indicative of a 
broad back), free from pointed or wedge shape (indicative of a nari'ow 
back); carried in line with back. 

Legs — Strong; length, in keeping with body, well up; straight, clear of feath- 
ers below the hock; standing well apart at keel, showing good open space; 
size, in keeping with body and symmetry, both in length and proportions; 
red in color. 

Feet — Large, of good proportion; size and color in keeping with substantial 
tarsus. 

Body — Solid, compact, deep in keel, round, corresponding with the well round- 
ed breast, showing good, symmeti'ical proportions. 

Flesh — Firm, solid, showing compactness. 



Carriage — Well up, haughty; free from squatty or crouch-like appearance, 
but well up on legs, carrying head in keeping; free from "down face," 
or tendency to bear beak in neck feathers. 
Breast — Full, round and well developed; in full keeping with the symmetry 

of the bird. 
Plumage — -Close-fltting; must be positively free from conspicuous slate, blue 
or smut, or other off color. The deeper the under color, or fluff, the 
more valuable in points. Neck color shows slightly more luster and sheen, 
free from greenish or beryl shade. 
Weight: 

Old cock 24 ounces 

Old hen 23 ounces 

Young cock 23 ounces 

Young hen 22 ounces 

When judges are not thoroly familiar with the weight of the birds, they 
should weigh or satisfy themselves of the weight, judging by comparison 
with those in close competition. 
Females — May be more feminine in general appearance, being a little more 
delicate and effeminate; the nearer, however, they correspond in type to 
the males, the more points they score. 

Solid Red Class 

To be judged by all points as above. 

Color — Bright, deep red chestnut color, closely resembling the horse 
chestnut when ripe in the burr. 

Decidedly deep red, free from off color. The deeper the under color or 
fluff the more valuable in points. Neck color showing more sheen and luster, 
free from green or beryl shades. The color similar to the "ox-heart cherry." 

Solid Yellow Class 

Same standard in type and all requirements, as in red class, except color, 
which should be a deep, golden yellow, showing sheen. Neck shading opales- 
cent, blending with golden hues. Eyes, conspicuous. Iris, prominent, orange. 
Beak, cream in color. Birds of cinnamon color should be termed "off color." 

Red and White and Yellow and White Class 

Must be judged by 'the same type and all points as in the other classes, 
with the exception of color, which must have enough white feathers to ex- 
clude them from the red class or the yellow class. Birds eligible to either the 
red or yellow classification cannot compete with these birds. 

Judges must guard against unfair competition in all classes. They must 
rule by points, also by comparison in keeping with show rules. When ex- 
hibited in pairs they must be judged by pairs and cannot compete against 
single birds. 

Rose Wing Red Class 

Same standard as in red class, except a limited number of white feathers 
in body of wing, forming a rosette in appearance, or ornamental design, not 
to extend beyond coverts, nor be too conspicuous in butts. 

Rose Wing Yellow Class 

Same standard as yellow class, except wing ornate, same as the rose- 
wing red. 

White Class 

This class shall be judged by the same standard in type and all points as 
in the red and yellow classes, with the exception of beak and feather colors. 
Beak must be cream or clear white. Feathers shall be clear white, both ex- 
terior and under color, or fluff. All other feathers than white disqualify. Eye 
must be Carneau type and of conspicuous orange color. 

Black Class 

This class shall be judged by the same standard in type and all points as 

44 



in the Red class, except feather color, which should be jet black, free from 
rustiness or dun appearance, showing a green metallic lustre with metallic 
green hackle. 

Points of Scoring 

Type and symmetry 50 points 

Color 25 points 

Minor details 25 points 

Total 100 points 

Itemized Points of Scoring 

Body, breast and construction 22 points 

Carriage and symmetry 8 points 

Head 7 points 

Neck 5 points 

Wings 5 points 

Tail 3 points 

Total 50 points 

Color in general 20 points 

Feathers, condition 5 points 

Total color points 25 points 

Beak 3 points 

Beak, too dark or deep shade , 2 points 

Eye 3 points 

Iris 3 points 

Cere 2 points 

Legs 4 points 

Feet 3 points 

General condition 5 points 

Total 25 points 

Grand Total 100 points 

Judges must use the "Universal Standard" in judging all Carneaux, and, 
to be qualified to do so, must be in possession of and well acquainted with the 
standard; and when competition is close judges must judge all birds by points 
and comparison, and, when possible, exhibit and compare in walking cage. 

In case of protest in regular form, the judge must furnish the committee 
with all points upon which he based his decision. 

Qualification — For All Classes 

All birds other than mentioned in standard shall be disqualified. 

All birds showing conspicuous off-color in feather, especially such as 
blue, slate, gray or smut. 

Birds with wry or uplift tails. 

Birds carrying wings below tail, or hanging away from the body or with 
decided spread of wings. 

Birds showing sickness or in bad condition. 

Birds showing any "Runt" or "Hen pigeon" eccentricities or the "Tum- 
bler head." 

Birds showing any signs of having been tampered with, such as coloring, 
plucking, or any other indication of intended fraud. 

Judges finding less than the regular number of tail or flights such as 
missing feathers shall cut or discount for same, or disqualify. 

45 



Carneaux Excelled in Quality at the National Show 

By J. W. Williamson, Judge, Secretary International Carneau Club. 

The grand display of 224 American Beauties was a sight that 
will long be remembered by all who attended the first National. It 
was the best quality show of Carneaux ever exhibited. I never felt 
a keener love for these "The Pride of My Heart" birds than when 
told, "Ready, go ahead and judge," for I was anxious to get right 
among them and I surely did. As I began handling, first one, then 
another, it seemed like gathering roses in a garden, going here and 
there for my selections, viewing them in the best Hght, picking a 
red, then a yellow, adding a white from one section and black from 
another until I had pictured in my mind a most lovely garden of liv- 
ing, breathing roses with their beauty ever increasing^ as the sun, 
at short intervals, threw its rays of light upon them, enhancing their 
intrinsic value and by its illuminating power revealing all the beauty 
as it brought forth the irridescent color efifect more brilliantly at the 
breast and from the nape of the neck down the back to the tail. I 
never saw such excellent color efifect in Carneaux before. 

How greatly they improve from year to year — each year sur- 
passing the previous one. The uppermost thought was "Is it any 
wonder so many fanciers raise Carneaux?" The Reds seemed to be 
the attractive flower of the garden, especially the plot assigned for 
the growing young cocks. When assembled in the walking cage 
they appeared as tho grown from the same seed pod. Quality here 
ran supreme. The dark red copper metallic sheen giving color effect 
and the beautiful red cere perfectly encircling the eyes were all that 
could be desired. The eye proper showed good size and bright, the 
iris shading from light orange to red. All were good specimens. 

The type was close within the standard, for color without type 
must lose. The man who courts the flashily dressed lass and fails to 
notice the nicely molded model with 1)eauty in face and form, gets 
fooled. 

Only one bird went over standard weight and it weighed twen- 
ty-eight ounces. This bird and its mate were awarded first in stock 
pair class. It was also awarded a special by the International Car- 
neau Club for the heaviest Carneau in the show. 

One excellent colored yellow had to go down the line for show- 
ing too much Maltese. Very few showed Runt blood. 

The Whites are coming stronger every year and good heads 
were found. 

The Blacks were of good size and type except head ; here they 
lack in foreliead, which should be prominent. In profile, the rising 
should be perceptil)ly from the wattle. All black cocks were in poor 
condition, looking as tho they needed a good meal. Boys get the 
right head on your blacks or you will lose to the one who has them. 



46 



Maltese 

This variety has many admirers as a utility and show bird. It 
is sometimes called Maltese-hen, Henne or just Maltese. The ones 
selected for utility purposes have shorter legs, shorter neck, and a 
broader breast than the illustration below. The broad breasted ones 
have somewhat the appearance of Leghorn Runts. 

It is a bird with quite a history, supposed by some to have orig- 
inated from the Leghorn Runt. Eaton describes it as follows : — 
"A stately, large pigeon, seven inches or more in the legs, close 
feathered and fast fleshed, extremely broad chested, he carries his 
tail turned up like a duck. His neck is longer than that of any other 
pigeon, and bends it like a goose or swan." John Moore, London, 
1735, quotes Willoughby as follows: — "This bird was originally bred 
at Pisae on the Duke of Tuscany's dominions or at Pisae in Pelopo- 
nesus and from thence brought to Leghorn and so transmitted to 
us." The Burmese or Florentine also originated from the Leghorn 
Runt, according to Brent in his writings. 




Maltese 

Heavy blocky birds should never be placed in a show. There are 
several standards but the following is most frec[uently used for the 
Maltese. 

Maltese Standard 

Head — Long, well arched, carried high, finely curved from base of beak to 
back of crown, cheek bones flat, giving the appearance of a goose from 
side view. Measurements — Length, from the tip of beak to the back of 
the skull, three and one half inches. Width, from eye-cere, one inch, 
tapering to quarter inch above the mandibles. 

Beak — Stout, long, forming a decided angle with the head; in black and blues, 
beak should be black. In all other colors beak should be flesh or light 
color. Measurements — of face and beak, one and three quarter inches, 
from the pupil of the eye to the tip of the beak. 

Eyes — Not prominent. Whites, blue eyes, cere red; Blacks and Blues orange 
eyes, cere damson; Yellows, Duns and Silvers, pearl eyes, cere, flesh color; 
Reds, orange eyes, cere, flesh color, 

47 



Neck — Very long and slender, carried erect, as nearly same thickness as pos- 
sible, until approaching the shoulders. Measurements — Length from 
shoulder to top of skull, six inches. 

Body — The breast to be broad, carried high, full and well rounded, projecting 
forward about half inch beyond the wing butt, straight breast bone, 
showing a moderate depth of keel. The back to be broad, short, hori- 
zontal and with slight elevation at the rump. Shoulders wide, slightly 
projecting, showing muscular power. Rump, well developed and very 
closely feathered, giving the body a symmetrical appearance. Measure- 
ments — Across the breast from inside of one wing butt to the other, 
three and one half inches. From breast to rump bones, six inches. 
Across back, including wing butts, four and one half inches or more. 

Wings — Long in the joint, very short flights, lying close, carried well up, 
showing full length of thighs, and crossing or meeting on center of tail, 
wing butts prominent, projecting outward slightly at breast, giving a 
clean cut appearance. Measurements — From end of wing butt to tip of 
flight, eight inches. 

Tail — Short, full, as nearly square as possible, carried upright, leaning slightly 
forward. Measurements — length not more than four inches, width not 
less than three inches and not more than three and one half inches. 

Thighs — Powerful, long, and should show as much as possible, set well apart 
and in center of body, hanging straight down from wings, very closely 
feathered. 

Legs — (Below the hocks) stout, very long, red; joint must not be bent, free 
of feathers. 

Feet — Straight and long, toes set well apart; the toe nails of the same color 
as the beak. From the upper joint of thigh to the end of middle toe nail 
eight inches. From the hock joint to the sole of the foot should show 
about six inches. The leg from the wing to the sole of the foot should 
show about six inches. Across the breast, from the inside of one thigh 
to the other, two and one half inches. The breast should clear about five 
inches. 

Condition — Hard and muscular thruout. 

Color — White, Black, Dun, Silver, Red, Yellow, and A. 0. C. Blacks. Duns — 
Dark even color thruout. Blues — A soft blue, sound and uniformly clear, 
a deep green luster on neck, and distinct black bar on wings and tail. 
Silver — Soft even color, and dark bar on wings. Reds — Dark red, even 
thruout, as lustrous as possible. Whites — Milk white, "satin like" lustre 
on hackle. Blacks — Should be lustrous black, showing a green sheen on 
hackle 

Carriage — Erect almost perpendicular line existing from the ball of the eye to 
the sole of the foot, upright and stretching. 

Action — Proud and graceful. 

Remarks — The bird should be rather large, stand high, with short, hard, com- 
pact body, but not so heavy as to mar the elegance of its figure; it should 
carry its head high and when excited or driving should throw its head 
back almost to its tail; should be short in feather and fit very closely and 
compactly to the body, especially on the breast, shoulders and vent; giv- 
ing the bird a very clean cut appearance and showing a muscular power. 
It should have a free, graceful action. An ideal specimen should stand 
fifteen inches high. 

Hungarians 

This is a bird of many interesting points that are not found in 
any other breed. The nearest approach to it is the Florentine in its 
markings. The type is that of the Maltese, but it is not so long in 
the neck and legs. The tail is longer and is not elevated so high. For 
utility purposes it is the "bird that raises the golden skinned squabs." 

48 



The even tape markings in good specimens always attract at- 
tention. The markings are a deep even shade of black, red, yellow 
or blue as the case may be, with a tape marking consisting of an 
even, narrow, white stripe, starting at the center of the wattle and 
running over the crown of the head and down the back of the neck, 
widening as it goes ; thus forming a very pointed triangle at the base 
of the neck where it joins the back. The tape marking then passes 
in a narrow line just in front of the ends of the Aving butts and comes 
together from both sides in an even curve in front and is merged 
into the white of the lower part of the breast, legs and thighs, meet- 
ing over the rump. The coloring which should be even and regular 
runs over the sides of the head including the eyes, then turns down 
by the ears and forms a deep pear-shaped bib on the breast. The 
wing bow, wing- coverts and main tail feathers should be solid black, 
red, yellow or blue, as the case may be, of the same shade as the 
bib on the breast. Flight feathers should be white and free from 
colored feathers or mixture of colors. In the case of blue Hungar- 
ians, the wings when folded should show two distinct black bars, 
slightly wider in the center than at the ends, running a curved shape 
across the wing coverts. These bars should be three quarters of an 
inch or more apart at the lower edge of the wing and come together, 
or nearly so, as they approach the back where the wing folds against 
the back. The space between these bars should be the same shade 
of color as the rest of the wing- bow. At the tip of the tail there 
should be one black bar of the same shade as those on the wings. 
The bar forms an even edging when the feathers are in their proper 
place. 

Credit for the drawing' up of the Standard is due Mr. D. M. 
Green and also credit for other services rendered for the good of 
the breed. 

Hungarian Standard 

Disqualifications — Solid black beak, knock knees, absence of tape marking, 
bib color joining that of wings on both sides, drooping wings or solid 
colored rump. (See general disqualifications.) 

Standard Weights — Old Cock 26 ounces; Old Hen 24 ounces; Young Cock 24 
ounces; Young Hen 22 ounces. 

Shape 
Head — Rather long with finely curved rounding skull giving a trim and neat 

appearance. 
Beak — Moderately long, stout and tapering with a slight downward curve 

as it approaches the tip end. 
Wattles — Small, neat and smooth. 

Eyes — Round, of moderate size in proportion to the size of head. 
Eye-Cere — Neat and fine in texture. 
Neck — Long, erect but of good proportion, showing fullness where it joins 

the breast. 
Wings — Short, carried well up and close to the body; wing butts rather 

prominent giving the body a strong heavy appearance. 
Back — Short, broad and straight with exception of slight elevation at rump. 

Shoulders should be wide, showing strength and fullness. 

49 



Tail — Should be about one inch long-er than wings, of moderate width and 

should be carried at an angle of forty-five degrees. 
Breast — Broad, full and well rounded, signifying an abundance of breast 

meat. 

Body — Rather short, very compact, well rounded, and carried high off the 
ground. When standing erect a male bird should measure fourteen 
inches and a female thirteen and one-half inches from the ground to 
crown of the head, but not moi'e as excessively long, slender neck and 
legs are undesii-a'ble. A large compact, heavy-bodied, close feathered 
bird of moderate height with stout legs and well developed neck and 
shoulders is much more desirable and should always be given the pre- 
ference over a very tall, stilty, smaller bodied specimen with extra long 
neck and legs. 

Shanks and Toes — Long, of good size and free from feathers. 

Color — Black Hungarians 

Beak — Flesh color. 

Eyes — Orange. 

Eye-Cere — Red. 

Shanks and Toes — Red. 

Plumage — A rich glossy black with a tape marking consisting of an even 
narrow stripe starting at the center of the wattles and running- over the 
crown of the head and down the back of the neck, widening as it goes 
until it comes within about one half inch of the top edge of the wing 
butts on each side, then narrowing again very rapidly to form a pointed 
angle at the base of the neck; the point extending toward the back. The 
tape marking then passes in a narrow line about one half inch wide just 
in front of the wing butts and comes together from both sides in an 
even curve in front and is merged into the white of the lower part of 
the breast, legs and thighs, meeting over the rump. The black mark- 
ings should be even and the edges regular and well defined, should run 
over the sides of the head including the eyes, then turn down by the 
ears and form a deep pear-shaped bib on the breast. The wing bow, 
wing coverts and main tail feathers should be solid black thruout and of 
the same shade as the bib on the breast. The primary feathers of the 
wings, also the rump and thighs, should be pure white and free from 
colored feathers or mixtures of colors. 

Color — Red Hungarians 

Beak — Flesh color. 

Eyes — Orange. 

Eye-Cere— Red. 

Shanks and Toes — Red. 

Plumage— A deep even shade of red with a tape marking consisting of an 
even narrow white stripe starting at the center of the wattles and run- 
ning over the crown of the head and down the back of the neck, widen- 
ing as it goes, until it comes within about one half inch of the top edge 
of the wing butts, on each side, then narrowing ag'ain very rapidly to 
form a pointed angle at the base of the neck; the point extending toward 
the back. The tape marking then passes in a narrow line about one half 
inch wide just in front of the wing butts and comes together from both 
sides in an even curve in front and is merg^ed into the white of the lower 
part of the breast, leg's and thighs meeting over the rump. The deep 
red color, which should be even and the edges I'egular and well defined, 
runs over the sides of the head including the eyes, then turns down by 
the ears and forms a deep pear-shaped bib on the breast. The wing 
bow, wing coverts and main tail feathers should be a solid red thruour 
and of the same shade as the bib on the breast. The primary or flight 
feathers of the wings and also the rump and thighs should be pure 
white and free from colored feathers or mixtures of colors. 

50 



Color — Yellow Hungarians 

Beak — Flesh color. 

Eyes — Oi'ange. 

Eye-Cere — Red. 

Shanks and Toes— Red. 

Plumage — A deep even shade of yellow with a tape marking* consisting of 
an even narrow white stripe starting at the center of the wattles and 
Tunning over the crown of the head and down the back of the neck, wid- 
ening as it goes until it comes within about one half inch of the top 
edge of the wing butts on each side, then narrowing again very rapidly 
to form a pointed angle at the base of the neck; the points extending 
toward the back. The tape marking then passes in a narrow line about 
ov.e half inch wide just in front of the wing butts and comes together 
from both sides in an even curve in front and is merged into the white 
of the lower part of the breast, legs and thighs meeting- over the rump. 
The deep yellow color, which should be even and the edges regular and 
well defined, runs over the sides of the head including the eyes, then 
ti:rns down by the ears and forms a deep pear-shaped bib on the breast. 
The wing bow, wing coverts and main tail feathers should be solid yel- 
low thruout and of the same shade as the bib on the breast. The prim- 
ary or flight feathers of the wings, also the rump and thighs, should be 
pure white and free from colored feathers or mixtures of colors. 

Color — Blue Bar Hungarians 

Beak — Flesh color. 

Eyes- — Orange. 

Eye-Cere — Red. 

Shanks and Toes — Red. 

Plumage — A soft even shade of blue with a tape marking consisting- of an 
~-jer\ white stripe starting at the center of the wattles and running over 
"the crown of the head and down the back of the neck widening as it 
gees, until it comes within about one half inch of the top edge of the 
wing butts on each side, then narrowing again very rapidly to form a 
pointed angle at the base of the neck; the point extending toward the 
back. The tape marking then passes in a narrow line about one half 
inch wide just in front of the wing butts and comes together from both 
sieves in an even curve in front and is merged into the white of the lower 
part of the breast, legs and thighs, meeting over the rump. The soft 
¥jje color, which should be even and the edges regiilar and well de- 
fjijed, runs over the sides of the head including the eyes, then turns 
do\vn by the ears and forms a deep pear-shaped bib on the breast. The 
-wing bow, wing coverts and main tail feathers should be a soft even 
shade of blue of the same shade as the bib on the treast. The wings 
-when folded show two distinct black bars, slightly wider in the center 
than at the ends, running in a curved inverted V-shape across the wing 
coverts. These bars should be three-quarters of an inch or more apart 
at the lower edge of the wing and come together, or nearly together, 
as they approach the back where the wing folds against the back. The 
space between these bars should be the same shade of color as the rest 
of the wing bow. There shall also be one black bar of the same shade 
a? :hose on the wings at the tip end of the tail; the bar forming an even 
edging when the feathers are in their proper place. The primary or 
j5ight feathers of the wings, also the rump and thighs, should be pure 
white and free from colored feathers or mixture of colors. 

Scale of Points — Hungarian Pigeons 

In scoring Hungarian pigeons, or judging them by the score card sys- 
tem, due consideration must be given to the evenness and accuracy of the 
tape marking as required in the different sections as well as to the depth 
and even shade of color. The tape marking is a special feature that dis- 

51 



tingaiishes the breed, and a distinct even edging of the color section where 

it Joins the white is particularly desirable. 

Carriage 15 

Condition 8 

Head— Shape 4, Color 5 9 

Beak— Shape 2, Color 2 4 

Wattles— Shape 1, Color 1 2 

Eves— Shape 1, Color 2 3 

Eye Cere — Shape 1, Color 1 2 

Neck— Shape 3, Color 3 6 

Wings — Shape 5, Color 5 10 

Back— Shape 5, Color 4 9 

Tail— Shape 3, Color 3 6 

Breast- — Shape 5, Color 5 10 

Body— Shape 9, Color 5 14 

Shanks and Toes — Shape 1, Color 1 2 

100 

White Kings 

This bird was originated by Harry Troth of Millville, N. J. The 
illustration below is of one of the early type and was considered a 




White King 

good one. The latest types are birds of the same blocky appearance 
but the tail is carried parallel to the ground. The White King ap- 
peals to the squab raiser on account of its size, its white feathers and 
white meated squabs. 

Official Standard For Kings 

As Adopted By American King Club 

Disqualifications — Color other than white or creamy white in any part of 
plumage of White Kings, and color other than silver or silvery blue in 
any part of plumage of Silver Kings; any feather or feathers on shanks 
or toes; deformed beak or toe; wry or split tail, or any radical deformity. 

Standard Weights — Old Cock, 26 ounces; Old Hen, 24 ounces; Young Cock, 24 
ounces; Young Hen, 22 ounces. 

5:1 



Shape 

Kead — Moderately large, with round skull and prominent forehead. 

Beak— Stout, of medium length. 

Wattle^Rather small, smooth in texture. 

Eyes — Prominent, large, keen. 

Cere — Perfectly round, of medium size, (about 1-16 inch wide); fine in 

texture. 
Keck — Moderately long, symmetrically blending into broad shoulders and 

breast. 
Wings — Comparatively short, well folded, ending about three-fourth inch 

in front of and on the tail; fronts well covered by breast feathers. 
Back — Medium length, straight, very broad from shoulders to tail. 
Tail — Rather short, broad and level its entire length, carried parallel to the 

ground and on a line with the lower portion of the body. 
Breast — Prominent, broad, deep and well rounded. 

Body — Medium length, broad, deep, well rounded, carried horizontally. 
Keel- — Straight. 
Shanks and Toes — Shanks: Stout, of medium length, straight, free of any 

indication of feathers, set well back under the body and well apart. Toes: 

Straight, of medium length; well spread. 
Plumage — Close feathered; any tendency to long or loose feathering or ele- 
vated tails or wings should be discouraged. 




Latest Standard White King 

Color — White Kings 

Beak — Pinkish white. 
Wattle — White and frosted. 
Eyes — Brownish black. 
Cere— Beet red. 
Shanks and Toes — Bright red. 
Plumage — Pure white. 

Color — Silver Kings 

Beak — Horn color. 

"Wattle — White and frosted. 

Eyes — Pearl. 

Cere — Flesh color. 

Shanks and Toes — Bright red. 

Plumage — A silvery blue tending to favro color in all sections of body in- 
cluding rumps with as little contrast as possible in shade of back, breast, 
wings and tail. The neck should be a darker shade of rich fawn color 
with a brilliant metallic luster, wings when folded to show two sharp 

53 



well defined bars slig-htly wider in the center and at the ends running: in 
a curved inverted V-shape across the wing- coverts. The bars should be 
wider apart at the lower edge of the wing and come together or nearly 
so as they approach the top when the wing folds against the back. The 
space between the bars should be of the same shade of color as the rest 
of the body. There should also be one dark bar of the same shade as 
those on the wings at the tip end of the tail, the bar forming an even 
edg:ing when the feathers are in their natural position. 

Scale of Points 

Size and weight 10 

Carriage 10 

Condition ; 5 

Head— Shape 5, Color 3 8 

Beak— Shape 2, Color 1 3 

Eyes— Shape 2, Color 1 3 

Cere— Shape 2, Color 3 5 

Wattle— Shape 1, Color 1 2 

Neck— Shape 2, Color 1 3 

Wings— Shape 5, Color 3 8 

Back— Shape 4, Color 3 7 

Tail— Shape 5, Color 3 8 

Breast — Shape G, Color 4 10 

Body— Shape 10, Color 5 15 

Shanks and Toes — Shape 2, Color 1 3 ■ 

100 




Two Pairs of Large White Kings, Showing the Method of Ship- 
ping Where the Distance is not Great. 



Mondaines 

The Mondaine has the general type of the small Runt, which 
many claim it to be, while other groups of fanciers claim it origin- 
ated in Switzerland and is a distinct type. Mondaines come in sever- 
al colors as do the Runts, but the favored color in America is white. 
The Swiss Mondaines, which are considered good breeders of large 
white squabs, being white feathered, some prefer them to the dark 
colored birds. 

The following Standard is the one adopted by American fanci- 
ers and which the author has judged l)y. 

54 



Swiss Mondaine Standard 

Disqualifications— Color — Any other color than white, blue, silver or their 
combinations. Type — Short keel, perpendicular neck, crouchiness, drag 
to wing's, hump breast or any radical deformity. Condition — Seriously 
impaired or diseased. 

Standard Weights — Old Cocks, 27 ounces; Old Hens, 24 ounces; Young Cocks,. 
24 ounces; Young Hens, 21 ounces. 

Shape 

Head — Medium size and length with moderately full frontal, the eyes being- 
set about three fifths forward of the base of the skull. Should be slightly 
oval at the rear of the skull and the highest point should be immediately 
above the eye. Objections^Elliptical, round, long back skull, fiat or 
pinched, eye too far forward. 




Mondaine 



Objections — Unequal in size, coarse. 



Beak — Strong and of medium length, the upper mandible curving slightly 
downward as it approaches the tip end. Objections — Pinched, hooked 
0? short. 

Wattles — Rather long, medium size, 
large. 

Eyes — Round and full. Objections — Beadiness, sunken, lack of lustre. 

Eye-Cere — Regular in shape, rather wide. Objections — Irregular, coarse. 

Neck — Long, carried forward and up, gradually tapering from a full breast. 
Objections — Coarseness, short, swan-like. 

Wings — Long, well up and snug to the body. Objections — Shortness, droopi- 
ness, narrowness. 

Back — Long, tapering to the tail, the widest point being well below the shoul- 
ders. Objections — Pronounced shoulders, quick taper, especially at the 
rump. 

Tail — Long, fairly well spread and so joining the back as to make a pleasing 
appearance. Objections — Up-tilted, dragging, narrow, short. 

Breast — Long, to accompany the long body, full and well rounded. Objections 
— Short or double breast, narrow. 

55 



Shanks and Toes — Strong and of good length, clean preferred, feet of gener- 
ous proportions. Objections — Too short or grouse legged. 
Feathers — Long and close. Objections — Looseness, too short or too narrow. 

Color for White Swiss Mondaine 
Beak — Flesh colored, free from stain. 
Eyes — Very dark hazel. 
Eye-Cere— Red. 
Shanks and Toes — Pinkish red. 

Plumage — Pure white in all sections, with a satin lustre on neck, no yellow- 
ish tinge. 
Undercolor — White. 

Scale of Points for Swiss Mondaine Pigeons 

Carriage 20 

Condition 10 

Head— Shape 6, Color 1 7 

Beak— Shape 1, Color 2 3 

Eyes— Shape 1, Color 2 3 

Eye-Cere— Shape 2, Color 2 4 

AVattles— Shape 1, Color 1 2 

Neck— Shape 5, Color 2 7 

Wings — Shape 5, Color 3 8 

Back— Shape 6, Color 3 9 

Tail— Shape 5, Color 2 7 

Breast— Shape 6, Color 3 9 

Body— Shape 6, Color 3 9 

Shanks and toes — Shape 1, Color 1 2 

100 




Duchesse 



Duchesse 

The Duchesse is a bird that was used for both fancy and utility 
purposes. In the fancy, the better booted they were, the more high- 
ly priced, while the squab raiser tried to avoid the heavily feathered 
legs. The Duchesse is larger than the Homer and a good breeder, 
but few are used for squab purposes as the feathers are an objec- 
tion to pickers and the squabs have not the neat appearance when 
plucked, as the clean, bright, red foot sc^uab. 

56 



Squabs 



Their Rapid Growth 

The peepers shown in the cut below weighed one and one half 
ounces Avhen two days old. The other egg is cracked and ready to 
release its prisoner, weighing three quarters of an ounce. The peep- 
ers are helpless, being entirely different from young quail or pheas- 
ants, which run as soon as hatched. The peepers remain in the nest 
until four weeks old, unless there is an unusual disturbance. They 
are tiny little things, blind at birth and can only sav "peep." While 




"Peepers." Two Days Old, Living on Pigeon Milk 



they seem very lifeless, yet they are hardy, and will withstand the 
heat and cold where a young chick would die in an hour's time. As 
far as heat and cold are concerned thev are tough as nails. 




Lunch Time 

Pigeon milk is found in the crops of both of the parent birds dur- 
ing the period of incubation. The milk forms in the crop about three 
cays before the peepers are hatched. In the majority of cases the 
peeper is out of the. shell in eighteen days. Some writers state the 
pigeon's milk is white in color; others will say it is yellow; and still 
others, a light brown. 

My experience in dissecting birds has shown it to be of various 
colors. I have also noticed that it is the feed that governs the color. 

57 



If the birds are fed principally on corn, the milk will be yellow ; if on 
wheat and kafir corn, it will be white ; and if darker grains, such as 
buckwheat, hemp, rape, etc. are fed it is often of a darker color. So 
the one who so positively states it is white, is correct, as well as the 
one who claims it is of a darker color, but that is as far as they seem- 
ed to go, as none ever gave reasons why the color is as it is. How- 
ever, squab breeders are not particular about the color as long as it 
does the work. It is very hard to find a substitute for pigeon's milk. 
Soaked bread, crackers or anything else will not have the nourishing- 
qualities that God has provided in the nature of the birds. 

When a squab is rolled out of a nest or injured, the best way to 
feed it artificially is to soak some peas and feed one at a time. I 
have seen people take such a squab and feed it by placing the bill in 
their own mouths, similar to the way the parent birds do. 

Raising Squabs 

Raising Squabs for the market is one of the most fascinating, 
profitable and pleasant occupations a man, woman, boy or girl, can 




"Squeakers." Two Weeks Old, Living on Soft Feed 

possibly venture into — the work being light, has caused many to en- 
ter into it whose health would not permit them to do inside work or 
very laborious outside work. 

With ordinary care breeders should raise fat, plump squabs in 
sufficient quantities to make at least $i.5b per pair a year from each 
pair of breeders, which many claim they are doing, and experience 
will teach many things that will increase the profits year by year. 
It is one of the industries that is not overcrowded, and has many ad- 
vantages, with less drawbacks, than any other business along the 
same line. 

Any old breeder will tell you that it is not hard work but that 
you must have the right kind of stock, give fresh water twice each 
day, keep it from the sun, and feed no one grain continually, but vary 
the food from day to day. 

Squab farming, as it is termed, does not require a college edu- 

58 



cation to insure success, altho many college bred people are engaged 
in the industry. There is no keen competition ; no being shut up in 
office or store. The markets are always eager for your squabs, as 
they are never fully supplied and prices grow better continually. 
Scjuab eating is a luxury. No meat can be compared with it, as it is 
far superior to wild game, and has no trace of the wild game flavor. 
A scjual:) is the most toothsome morsel of meat man can possibly eat. 
fairly melting in the mouth and very nutritious. "Quail on toast" 
cannot be compared with "Squab on toast." They contain no gun 
shot wounds and are a greater luxury, also they are plumper and 
heavier from which they derive the name "Squab." In the markets 
the prices are always above the price of quail, as will be noticed in 
the commission merchants' quotations. 

The breeding birds breed very rapidly, laying two eggs at a sit- 
ting, but before the squabs from the first sitting, are four weeks old, 
at which time they are ready for market, two more eggs have been 
laid in another nest and incubation continues. This is why two nests 
are necessary for each pair of breeders. Twenty-five pairs of breed- 




"Squealers." Three Weeks Old, Living on Coarse Food 

ers will more than supply an ordinary family with sc|uabs and the 
surplus can be sold to pay the feed bill. 

The eggs of pigeons hatch sooner than the eggs of any other 
domestic bird requiring only eighteen days and in four weeks the 
squabs are ready for market. It requires hen's eggs twenty-one days 
to hatch, guinea-hens, twenty-six days, pea-hens, twenty-eight days, 
ducks, twenty-nine, turkeys, twenty-nine* and geese, thirty days. If 
you have bred any of the above, count the time required before they 
are ready for market and the cost of the feed, then compare with 
the time and cost of getting squabs to market in four weeks. 

The question is often asked, "Will the business soon play out?" 
For thirty or more years this old question has been asked, but while 
some have been asking the question, others have been increasing 
their business from year to year. 

There are men, who, when they fail in business, blame the bus- 

59 



iness, but it is not the business that's a failure, but the man back ui 
it. We find some few in the squab business, who become greedy 
and buy the cheapest feed they can, and perhaps start in with cheap, 
common birds. For instance, in order to make a try-out, a man will 
start on the cheap plan. He continually feeds cracked corn. His 
birds are apparently doing all right, but such feeding soon tells on 
the birds and they do not feed their squabs so well. Their water 
has been neglected ; their nests are deep boxes the grocer gave him 
and are hard to keep clean. Consequently they become excellent 
breeding places for vermin. He wonders why his neighbor's birds 
do so well and his so poorly and finally he decides to sell his birds 
and quit, saying, after his ruined birds are sold, "The sc[uab l:»usiness 
is no good for I tried it." 

A proprietor of one of the largest plants in the Southern part of 
the State of New Jersey started twenty-eight years ago with a few 
pairs of the best l)irds he could purchase. With the start from these, 




Squabs Four Weeks Old, Living on Hard Food, Showing their 
Rapid Growth from One Day to Four Weeks. 

he now has one of the best equipped plants in the State and claims 
his birds alone built up the business and have paid for all the build- 
ings, besides netting him a neat income. A business that will give 
such sure and safe returns should have the best of treatment, as the 
margin of profit is sufficient to warrant the very best of everything. 



Sd 



Feeding 



The method of feeding- pigeons is somewhat different from that 
of feeding- poultry. The various mashes, cut clover, ground bone, 
beef scraps, egg foods, green stuffs, etc., which are fed to poultry 
should never be fed to pigeons. A little green stuff" can be ted and 
does no harm, but is not necessary. 

Pigeons are very fond of pepper-grass, lettuce, cabbage and pea 
leaves but care must be taken m feeding these things so that the 
pigeons do not get too much. Chickens can eat a great manv ar- 
ticles of food that will kill pigeons. 

Pigeon food is the more simple of the two, as their various 
grains can be counted on the fingers. 

When there are only a few coops of birds, peas can be planted 
within the flies, oblong frames made of six inch boards with poultry 
netting- tacked over them. As the peas grow the birds eat them thru 
the netting. This method prevents them from eating too much. 

How To Feed 

A great many people throw the feed in the flies. I have seen 
men who have thousands of birds feed in that manner and evidently 
they did not know any better. 

They claim they give only sufficient feed for the birds to eat up 
clean. As far as eating up clean is concerned, it is the proper way 
to feed, but the feed should not be given in the fly, as it is not an easy 
task for the beginner to give birds exactly what they will eat up 
clean, and at the same time have sufficient to fill the crops of each 
squab in the nests. It is better to have a little left over than not 
enough. My guide is the crops of the squabs. If their crops are full, 
they have had enough, and the breeders have had enough. An hour 
after feeding, examine the squabs and you will soon gauge to a nicety 
the amount of feed needed. Three quarts of feed will l)e plenty for 
fifty pairs of breeders and their squabs. 

If the feed be thrown in the fly and any of it remain over-night, 
the dew in summer will cause it to sour, in winter it will lie in the 
snow and in rainy weather it will mold. 

Another bad feature of feeding in the fly is that the sparrows 
will fly to your coops as regularly as you go to feed. 

No one can estimate the exact amount of feed required for a 
coop of breeding birds. The amount of feed the breeders rec^uire for 
themselves is small compared to the feed they pump into the squabs. 
The old birds can get along with, very little food, but when fifty pairs 
of breeders are feeding fifty pairs of squabs, which in four weeks 
should weigh as much as the breeding birds, it is quite evident that 
a large amount of feed is necessary to develop that amount of flesh, 

61 



as at every feeding time the breeders cram crops of the squabs full. 
In some cases, when squabs are two weeks old, the crop is as heavy 
as the squab. The better breeders and feeders your birds are, the 
more feed they will consume. 

Automatic Feeders 

Never use automatic feeders. They are used on very few large 
squab farms. However, they are very convenient for pigeon deal- 
ers, who are buying and selling breeding stock and do not make a 
practice of raising breeders for sale. One objection squab raisers 
have to them is the fact that the birds will eat all of the dainties and 
leave the corn and wheat, but the principal objection is that the 
breeders become less active ; will not eat regularly nor feed the 
squabs regularly, when feed is continually before them and conse- 
quently do not produce big, plump squabs. 

Major Frank M. Gulbert who was one of the ablest pigeon judges 
in this country, said, 'T am firmly opposed to any sort of feed hop- 
per that will keep the feed continually before the birds. It is all very 
well to say that when they want it you want them to have it, but, I 
ask, 'How long could a man keep his appetite if his food was where 
he could see it all the time?' He would soon loathe the sight of it." 

Time To Feed 

The hours at which to feed during the winter should be between 
6:30 and 7 130 A. M. and at 3 :oo P. M. In summer, between 6:00 and 
7 :oo A. M. and at 4 :oo P. M. 

The regular time for the last feeding should be strictly observed, 
as it is the time the cock bird leaves the nest and the hen takes his 
place. 

The hen should have food before going to the nest. Another im- 
portant feature is that feeding at the above stated time gives the 
breeders plenty of time to feed before night-fall. A half hour or so 
will not make so much difference in the morning feeding, altho the 
morning feeding should be as early as possible, owing to the fact 
that the squabs' crops are nearly empty. After the feeding time is 
set, remember that regularity should be strictly observed. The birds 
will be expecting you. If you are regular, the breeders will be reg- 
ular in feeding their squabs. 

What To Feed 

Red wheat and corn are the two main articles of food fijr pi- 
geons, but for pigeons to continually eat wheat and corn is like a 
man continually eating ham and eggs — he soon tires of them. Cana- 
da field peas, hulled oats, kafir corn, millet, buckwheat, rape seed, 
hemp, rice, sunflower seed and table scraps, from which all meat 
and grease have been taken, should be added to the wheat and corn. 
Stale bread, if not moldy, is very good if soaked in a little water, but 
don't give too much of it nor too much green food. 

Farmers who have an over-supply of seeds, such as radish, to- 
mato, etc., can feed them Init must do so sparingly, the same as mil- 
en 

I 



let. Wheat screenings are good if you can secure a good quality, 
but mills, as a rule, place little of this on the market, as they make 
mure out of it by grinding it up and putting it in other products. 
There was a time when good screenings could be procured and still 
can be, at a few mills, but since the use of improved machinery in 
many mills, screenings are a scarce article and what is offered for 
sale contains so much chaiT and dirt that it pays better to buy wheat. 
Never feed many green peas, much green stuff or mushy meals as 
it gives the birds diarrhoea. What they need most of is well-season- 
ed hard grain, and plenty of grit to grind it ; viz. — charcoal, salt and 
crushed oyster shells, which should be kept before the birds con- 
tinually and should be renewed each week. 

All grain that is to be fed to pigeons should be well-seasoned. 
New corn and wheat should not be fed until about October or No- 
vember, and I would advise continuing to buy the old corn and wheat 
until that time. Some buy large quantities of wheat in July and 
August, because it is a little cheaper just after being threshed, but 
there is no economy in such buying, even tho it is cheaper, as grain 
shrinks considerably in the hardening process. 

Wheat, from the time it is threshed, will shrink two quarts to 
the bushel, or six per cent in six months. One hundred bushels of 
corn will be reduced to eighty bushels in the same length of time. 

Cracked corn should never be purchased in large quantities. 
Never keep on hand a supply that will last over a week, as it is 
very heating, and will sour and become moldy. Always feed a va- 
riety. 

After you have your squab plant working systematically it will 
surprise you how quickly the work can be done, and with certaintv. 
as there is no guess-work or worry over what should be done next. 
Get out of the old style of "any old way" and move along with im- 
proved methods. 

Birds require different food at different seasons. During the 
summer feed about the following proportions : — Two buckets of 
wheat to one of corn, and in winter two buckets of corn to one buck- 
et of wheat. Then add the dainties, using more of them in winter 
than in summer ; altho when the birds are molting use about the 
same proportions of sunflower seed and hemp. 

When feeding give more corn and wheat than anything else. 
Next in quantity, Kafir corn, peas, hulled oats and buckwheat, mil- 
let, rice, rape seed and hemp. Sunflower seeds should be fed spar- 
ingh% as they are expensive and are used as luxuries. If you find it 
more convenient to purchase and use other grains, arrange to suit 
your locality. 

When peas are cheap, use more of them and less wheat. When 
Kafir corn is cheap do not use so much cracked corn. As a rule the 
two mentioned (peas and Kafir corn) are usually lower in price 
during the summer months. 

Kafir Com 

Kafir corn is becoming cjuite popular with squab raisers, and 

63 



takes the place of Indian corn to a certain extent. While its proper- 
ties are not equal to Indian corn, yet at the same time it makes a 
nice change, and is not a great deal below in the rich fats and protein 
found in Indian corn, nor is it as loosening to the bowels as wheat. 
For pigeon food, I class it between Indian corn and wheat. 

It derives its name from a South African tribe known as Kafirs. 

It was first grown in the United States in 1886. There are a 
great many varieties. The most common seen in the markets are 
the white and red, which are gro\vn all over the United States where 
Indian corn is raised. Most of it is raised in the western states, l)e- 
tween the Mississippi River and the Rocky mountains. Kansas and 
Nebraska produce more of it than any other states, from which 
states eastern feed merchants draw their supply of feed. Farmers 
in the western states claim they can grow it with greater success 
than Indian corn, as it withstands the blight better. There is l)ut 
little difference in the nourishing qualities of the white and red. I)ut 
the latter is the better grower. It is about the size of hemp seed and 
round in shape. If kept in large quantities and too long, it will be- 
come musty and if fed, will cause trouljle. 

Indian Corn 

When buying corn the purchaser usually asks for yellow corn, 
or poor man's corn (the white variety), but of these two grains, 
there are over 272 yellow varieties and 217 white. 

For feeding animals and birds it does not matter very much 
which particular variety is used, as there is very little difference in 
the amovmt of proteins and fats. The yellow varieties, however, are 
mostly used. 

The corn used for pigeons should be Sifted Cracked Corn. If 
the cracked corn is not sifted there is considerable waste as the fine 
meal will not be eaten l:)y the birds. 

Whea: 

There are as many varieties of wheat as there are of corn, and 
when purchasing same, you are apt to get one variety one time and 
another variety the next time, and yet not know the difiference. In 
fact it does not make any difference so far as feeding is concerned. 
l)ut a wide difference in its being prolific and profitable to the farm- 
er. Under this heading all the varieties will be classed in two groups, 
the same as the Kafir corn — red and white — but the latter should 
not be used regularly. W' hen it is used, mix in other hard grain ; 
also, when using new red wheat, mix in hard grain and watch the 
squabs. If too loosening to the bowels, reduce the amount. Rice 
will be found very good to feed along with new grain. 

Wheal; Screenings 

These are very good, provided you can secure good screenings. 
If yovi can you will find them a most excellent pigeon food ; contain- 
ing besides wheat, various other grains and seeds, which are very 
healthful for ])igeons. Be careful to avoid a ])oor quality. 

64 



Scorched Wheat 

This should never be fed to pigeons. 

Cause of Scorched Wheat — Several years ago in the month of 
August I was in a position, the experience of which taught me con- 
siderable about wheat. The work was that of fitting' up the holds 
of large grain-carriers. These vessels are built in compartments, 
and carry grain from one port to another. A tight floor is made of 
scantling and hemlock boards stripped with plastering lath. When 
repairing damaged floors, considerable damaged wheat is found and 
wherever there is dampness the wheat has sprouted, especially in a 
leaky boat or one encountering high seas. A great deal of this wheat 
g'ets into large granaries and damages other grain. It is then put 
thru a heating process and the sprouts are scorched off, after which 
it is sold as feeding wheat. You need never be deceived by this 
wheat, as it has not the fresh appearance it should have, but is some- 
what darker and if bitten into, has a moldy or burnt taste to it. 
Wheat remaining" a long time in granaries and not properly ventilat- 
ed so that air can pass thru it will also sprout. 

Stale Bread 

Stale bread that is not sour nor moldy, when slightly dampened 
makes a nice noon-day meal, with some hard grain fed at the same 

tim,', 

Bakers will be glad to sell it, and it makes a cheap food, but 
wlien only 50 to 100 pairs of birds are breeding, the scraps from the 
table will be plenty, as too much soft food should not be fed to 
pigeons. 

Pea, 

There are quite a number of varieties of peas, but only one 
should be fed to pigeons as a regular feed. This is the Canada Field 
Pea. It is a very small pea, perfectly round and smooth, of a lig'ht 
yellow color, always very hard, and can be used shortly after being- 
taken from the vine. Pigeons delight in eating them, and they bring 
their squabs along in fine condition. They are grown the same as 
ordinary garden peas, and have the advantage of a longer season 
than the garden pea. They can be grown anywhere the garden peas 
can be grown and will stand even a colder climate than the garden 
pea. 

Rice 

There are over one hundred and sixty varieties of rice. It is an 
excellent food for pigeons, to be fed with wdieat. It is raised prin- 
cipally in the southern states, where rice can be purchased at a 
reasonable price. A great deal of it can be used for feed, especially 
when lots containing a little chaff", which makes it unfit for table 
use, can be bought. Pigeons do not ,take to it at once but after a 
few meals they like it. 

Hulled Oats 

Oats are very nourishing. The price is the main draw-back to 
using them, but when they can be secured at a reasonable price, they 

65 



should be fed, as nothing will bring along squabs as rapidly as hulled 
oats. Oats that are not hulled should never be fed. 

Barley 

This is another good food. It is sometimes used with the hulls 
on. It then resembles oats and somewhat resembles un-huUed oats 
when it is un-hulled. I would not advise using it with the hulls on 
as the chaff is injurious to the squabs. 

Those who do use it with the hulls on, do so merely because it 
is cheap, but cheap foods should not play a part in squab raising, as 
it means cheap squabs. 

Buckwheat 

Buckwheat, either the dark brown or gray, is used by many 
squab-raisers, but should not be fed in large quantities, and not much 
of it in summer, as it is very heating. Mix it with wheat, if mixed 
with corn, both grains being very heating, will cause bad results. 
It is a good, hard grain and is excellent to mix with white wheat or 
with new red wheat, when the old wheat happens to be scarce. 

Hemp 

Hemp is very fattening and stimulating, and should not be used 
separately. The best variety is the Russian Hemp. Birds are very 
fond of it, but they should not be fed too much of it. It is excellent 
during the molting season. Too much hemp will cause liver trouble. 

Sunflowei.' Seed 

This should be used the same as hemp ; it is even richer in pro- 
tein than hemp. A small quantity goes a long way. Birds do not 
like it so well as they do hemp. It, too, is excellent during the molt, 
gives a good lustre to the feathers, and is an aid in shedding the old 
feathers. 

Millef: 

Millet is used as a stimulant. Birds breed better when a small 
quantity is used with the other food. There are a great many va- 
rieties. It is used very extensively as human food in Japan, India 
and China. It is grown all over the United States, the most of it in 
states west of the Mississippi River. It is sown broadcast. 

Golden Wonder Millet is the variety used most in squab pro- 
duction, but nearly all of the varieties are used. 

Rape 

Rape seed is a very small, round, brown seed, somewhat the size 
of millet. Pigeons are very fond of it. It is used as a daint}-. 

Lentils and Vetches 

Lentils and Vetches are somewhat similar, and grow like peas. 
The former is mostly used in soups for flavoring. The pods contain 
only two flat round seeds. The lentils are mostly imported, but some 

66 



are grown in Arizona and Mexico. They are high in price and are 
used only as dainties in squab-raising. 

Salt 

Neither salt nor Rock Salt should be used in any way except in 
a properly proportioned grit mixture. Picking at Rock Salt bends 
the beaks of young birds like a hook, or causes crossed beaks. Then 
when they become breeders they cannot feed their young properly. 

Grit 

Grit is one of the essentials pigeons should never be without. 
You would naturally think a man foolish if he owned a good set of 
artificial teeth and yet sat down to the table without them and tried 
to eat. The pigeons have no teeth. So nature has provided pieces 
of grit, such as sand, gravel, broken stone, small sea-shells, crockery, 
or anvthing gritty to take the place of teeth. 

The crop of a pigeon takes the place of the mouth of the human 
being. The teeth of the human being grind the food, and by the aid 




Dissected Gizzard Showing Many Small Gritty Particles 

of the saliva furnished by certain glands, the food is softened and 
masticated, which is the first form of digestion, then it passes into 
the stomach. In pigeons, food lies in the crop until softened some- 
what with the juices similar to gastric juices in the stomach, when 
it passes into the gizzard; the grit along with it. This organ is very 
thick and firm, and keeps the food and grit in constant agitation. 
Without grit to properly grind the food, pigeons will become sickly, 
due to indigestion, get thin, become mere skeletons and die. When 
a fowl or pigeon is being prepared for the table, examine the gizzard 
and notice the great amount of grit it contains, and the varieties — 
from a piece of broken glass to broken pieces of flower pots — all 
made smooth by the action of the gizzard. 

I have learned more of the needs of pigeons by opening their 
crops and gizzards than in any other way. 

The grit has another office to perform besides grinding the 
food. It regulates the digestion by assisting in the assimilation of 

67 



the food, provides shell material for the eggs, and keeps the lairds 
healthy. 

Charcoal 
Charcoal sweetens the crop and absorbs the injurious gases 
which collect. It is a most efficient purifier and disinfectant, acting- 
upon the bowels and driving out the impurities — in this way cleans- 
ing the whole system. While using it you scarcely ever see a dark 
squab, as dark squabs are due in a measure to birds with liver dis- 
orders. The charcoal, acting on the liver, helps it greatly in perform- 
ing its work. By cleansing the system it acts as a regulator and 
appetizer. It is not a drug l)ut nature's own purifier, and is there- 
fore a good preventive of disease. It also . gives lustre to the 
plumage. 




Taking The Morning Bath 



68 



Sanitation and Health 



Sickness 

There is not much sickness among pigeons, if they are properly 
cared for. Good food, grit, and that one ounce of prevention, are 
better than ten pounds of cure. 

Some people get careless and neglect their pets, allowing them 
to drink filthy water, eat moldy food and do not keep them supplied 
with grit. They think more of how to cure than how to prevent 
sickness, and will tell you of the great success they have in curing- 
pigeons. 1 have noticed that some of the most careless make ex- 
cellent doctors. The careful class will feed the best and use their 
best judgment to keep their stock in the pink of perfection, but 





Drinking Founts 

should anything go wrong, the careful one will call in the careless 
one to do the doctoring. It seems we all have a niche to fill. 

Do not feed mixed feeds with high-sounding names. They are 
usually composed of a large amount of inferior grains that cannot 
be sold separately, or contain a lot of waste pop-corn from large 
confectioneries, who sell it by the barrel. While some recommend 
it, I would not, as I find the birds do not care for it. 

If you do not care to mix your own feed, you can purchase good 
mixtures from advertisements in any of the reliable poultry and 
pigeon journals. 

Wate* 

Water is one of the freest gifts of God to man. Yet man fails 
to use enough for himself and fails to judiciously supply his birds 
with it. Pigeons are great lovers of water, always drinking after a 
meal and between meals. They will bathe frequently if given the 
proper facilities for doing so. They enjoy bathing at all times. 

69 



Give drinking water twice a day in the flying pen, and in freez- 
ing weather place it in the houses. If there is no shade at the end 
of the flies, place the drinking founts in a box turned on end with 
back toward the sun. I find sunflowers make an excellent shade 
and the seeds can be fed to the birds. 

Give bathing water at least twice a week, and empty it after 
the birds have bathed. Always give the bath water in the morning. 

Pigeons should never be given water in receptacles made of tin 
or in anything that has contained posionous matter, grease or acid. 
Rusty cans used as water containers are very detrimental to the 
health of the birds. This rust is entirely different from the rust of 
iron which is beneficial. When birds molt use iron in the drinking 
vessels for a tonic. The iron can be supplied by using a large spike. 

Never use kegs that have contained paint, no matter how thoroly 
they may have been cleaned. White lead will kill pigeons. 

For drinking purposes use receptacles made of galvanized iron, 
crockery or wood that can easily be cleaned. 

Water System 

If you have no water system, have a one-inch galvanized line 
of pipe running to the houses and laid two feet under the ground. 




Bath Pan 

At the end of each fly have a valve to turn the water on and oft". At 
the extreme end of the pipes is a cistern eight feet deep. During the 
winter the water is turned on by a valve and when all of the houses 
are supplied shut the water off at the valve. The valve is then open- 
ed at the cistern and the pipes are drained dry. In this way water 
can be supplied and yet there will be no trouble with frozen pipes. 

At nearly all large squab farms where pipes are not used, the 
water is conveyed in a barrel on two wheels. Farms of one thousand 
to fifteen hundred birds are watered in this manner. When only a 
few hundred birds are kept the water is carried in a bucket, while 
others have the flies built to a small stream of water, or over it. 

Same have a wind mill, while others use a force-pump, and some 
have a hydrant centrally located, and attach a hose. Others have 
piping running thru the flies. 

Whitewashing 

Coops should be whitewashed at least once each year. It is a 
pleasure to enter a newly-whitewashed coop. Everything seems to 
be so sweetened and the air is so pure. 

70 



A Good Whitewash 

If you want to do it right, place the hnie in a tub, box or what- 
ever is the handiest for you. Then pour water around the edge of 
the Hme so that it will nearly cover it. As the lime begins to slake, 
stir with the paddle and add only sufficient water to keep the lime 
from burning. After the lime is all slaked it should be like a stiff 
putty. Now add a little more water and allow it to remain this way 
for one week. This is the way plasterers make what they call "put- 
ty." Then take some of the putty and add water to it until it is like 
new milk. To prevent the whitewash from turning yellow, place in 
it a little washing blue. To keep it from rubbing off, place in some 
powdered alum. To make it work easily like paint, put in a little 
soft soap, or use soap powder. To prevent any possible chance of 
lice add a little crude carbolic acid. If you have more lime than you 
need, keep it ; it will air slake and you can throw it in the nest bowls 
when you clean the nests. 

The Proper Way to Clean 

The parent birds, while hatching the eggs, which requires from 
seventeen to eighteen days, do not soil the nest, but when the squabs 




"Nest Bowl." The Kind to Use are Round on the 
Inside so Egg Will Lie in Center. 

are two weeks old the nest is quite dirty around the edges and should 
then be cleaned by taking it from the nest bowl with a trowel ; plac- 
ing the manure by itself, as it should be saved and sold, then shaking 
out the stems, placing about half back in the nest bowl. Two weeks 
later the squabs are four weeks old, and ready for market. Then the 
nest is cleaned again and air-slaked lime should be thrown in the 
nest bowl. Be careful when using lime that none gets in the birds' 
eyes. The birds have already built a nest in the adjoining bowl and 
very likely have eggs or peepers. The nest bowl just cleaned is all 
ready for their nest-building. It will be noticed that there is no spec- 
ial time for cleaning, except that nests should be cleaned twice, once 
when squabs are about two weeks old and again when they are four 
weeks old. The floors may be cleaned whenever you wish to do them. 

Cleaning Houses 

The advice that some writers give on cleaning sounds ridiculous 
to many old squab raisers. Some advise cleaning the house once a 
week ; some twice a week ; every month ; every six months ; every 
year, etc. 

71 



It is the nests that must be kept clean. Clean the floors once a 
month. Some men with thousands of pairs of breeders, clean floors 
only once or twice a year. It is advisable to clean the floors at least 
once a month, and then you will seldom be troubled with mice or 
rats. Mice will build right in the nests with the birds and rats will 
burrow on the floor, if houses are dirty or full of litter. 

A fancier complained about his birds leaving their nests, and the 
eggs getting chilled. I answered, "It must be caused by mice. Clean 
your nests more frequently." The reply was that there was not a 
mouse on the place. The man, living near, I went to his place and he 
took me to his houses and showed the nest of chilled eggs. As soon 
as I saw the nest with fine stems in the corner I knew the cause. I 
asked, "Have you a cat?" He said, "yes," and got her. I told him 
the first thing the cat would do if he was not careful, would be to 
catch a squab, and if she did, to box her ears, and take the squab 
from her. This she did and he did as I had told him. He now car- 
ried her to the nest of chilled eggs, lifted the nest "and found a mouse 
nest but no mice. He then took the cat to the next house and as he 
lifted a nest, out jumped an old mfouse and three half grown ones. 
In fifteen minutes the cat had caught them all. I now told him he 
had not followed my directions in cleaning nests ; but he insisted they 
were clean, and not dirty. "Yes, but you did not clean as directed, as 
I believe I know something about the length of time it takes mice 
to build nests and rear young that are half-grown, as well as about 
squabs. Train the cat to catch them and you will soon be rid of 
them." It is these small things that count in squab-raising. Soon 
-after this my friend called, stating that his birds were doing nicely, 
and the cat well broken in; that she caught fifteen mice in one day, 
and that he can honestly state now that there is not a mouse in any 
house or he would find some trace of them when cleaning the nests. 

Training Cats to Catch Mice 

When training cats to catch mice and not to catch squabs, it is 
best to teach a young one. A cat will follow you to the houses like 
a dog. However, you will not find any mice nests if you keep the 
squab nests clean, as a mouse cannot build and have young from the 
time the nest is cleaned to the second cleaning time. If the cat has 
spied a mouse and cannot catch it, let her remain all night, and usu- 
ally she will come running to } t)U in the morning with a mouse, as 
]>roud as a boy with a tin watch. 

When cleaning, the only tools needed are a spade, a trowel and 
a strong shovel or short scraper. Do not use a lot of long handled 
tools, such as a hoe. scraper, etc. Enter your houses slowly, so that 
the birds that want to fly out to the fly may do so without being- 
frightened. Some of the birds will remain on the nest during the 
whole time of cleaning, and you will be obliged to lift them off, while 
others will keep flying in and out. Never whistle nor make an up- 
roar in the house. Clean each nest as cjuickly as you can, so as to 
allow the birds to cover their eggs, talk in low tones to your birds, 
("let acquainted with them. If one sticks to its nest and coos angrily 

72 



?it you, allow it to strike your hands, but be careful when lifting the 
eggs, if the bird gently slaps you, that it does not knock the eggs 
from your hand. 

Shifting Nests 

When shifting a nest, it must be done very slowly. If the nest 
is on the floor don't disturb it vnitil the eggs are three to five days 
old ; or the birds will leave it. To move it, first place it in a nest 
bowl ; the next day place a couple of bricks or blocks under it ; keep 
raising it two or three inches for three or four days then increase 
the distance until the nest is where you want it. I have changed 
them in this way from one side to another and from the floor to the 
top row of nesting apartments. 

Never take a pair of breeders, their nest of eggs or squabs from 
one house to another, for in nine cases out of ten they will leave 
them. 

From Egg to Market 

About two weeks after birds are mated, the hen will lay an egg 
about four o'clock in the afternoon, but will not sit very regularly. 
She skips a day and lays the second egg. She then covers the eggs 
and gives them better attention. The longer incubation continues,, 
the closer she nestles the eggs and if watched closely, it will be no- 
ticed that both birds turn the eggs quite frecjuently with their bills. 
The cock covers the eggs from ten o'clock A. M. until about four P. 
M. when the hen takes her turn. 

The weight of a Carneau egg, that will produce a squab weigh- 
ing one pound, is one ounce. The day after it is hatched the peeper 
will weigh one ounce more, and continue gaining one ounce till seven 
or eight days old. Then the increase lessens to about three quarters 
of an ounce per day and some days there is scarcely any difference 
noticeable, altho many will gain considerably during the last week, 
depending on the feeding qualities of the breeders. 

The first egg laid is about one eighth of an inch larger than the 
second one and the first peeper, when hatched, has a day's start 
of the other egg. Many writers claim the reason for this is because 
the cock birds are larger than the hens, but in many cases I have 
had both squabs hatched the same day and the cock bird always turn- 
ed ovit to be the larger bird. As a rule, the cock bird of a pair of 
nestmates is always the larger. 

I do not attribute this to the size of the eggs or that one hatches 
before the other, but as is natural with all birds and animals, the 
larger is the male. In chickens the cock of the same breed is always 
larger than the hen, even tho the eggs are all hatched the same day. 

Like a great many squab raisers, I always imagined a squab ma- 
tured more rapidly during the last week of its maturity, but squabs 
are very deceiving at this age, as I have proven by weighing them 
repeatedly from the egg until they are full-grown and ready for 
market. During the last week they stand up on the nest when ap- 
proached, and because they take on feathers so rapidly, it seems to 
be the age at which they gain the most flesh. However, it is onlv 
an abundance of feathers, and feathers are not heavy. 

73 



Diseases and Their Remedies 

On previous pages of this book we have endeavored to help the 
pigeon breeders to keep and care for their birds in such a way as to 
keep them in good health, but diseases will come, and sometimes 
when almost ideal conditions surround the birds, and when they do 
come you naturally want to know a remedy that has been tried 
and true. 

Canker 

Canker is a disease that will oft times make its appearance in 
the best regulated lofts. It attacks a bifd sometimes in the ear, nos- 
trils, mouth and throat. The disease in any section is a very 
contagious one, and it is hardly worth while doctoring the specimen 
unless it be a valuable bird. The same treatment used for mouth 
and throat canker will not effect a cure for canker of the ear, and 
a bird that recovers from an attack is not a good specimen to breed 
from, as it often makes its appearance in the squabs and oft times 
the whole loft is polluted and the breeder wonders how his birds 
contracted the disease. Canker inside the mouth and on the tongue 
can be cured by scraping it oft' until the blood comes and burnt 
powdered alum sprinkled on. This is one of the most eft'ective cures 
for canker. Canker in the ear is not so easily cured as canker in the 
mouth, and the ear washed gently with a solution of bicarbonate of 
soda and water daily will effect a cure if taken in time and the bird 
is given the proper attention. 

Pigeon Pox 

A common and contagious disease caused by filthy conditions, 
moulding food, filthy drinking water, etc., is pigeon pox. It first 
makes its appearance like a little pimple and develops into a warty 
growth. When pulled off small root-like threads come with it and 
a quantity of pus and a watery fluid which has a very disagreeable 
-odor. The only cure known is to cut around the growth in such a 
way so that wdien the wart is pulled oft' the roots will come with it. 
Then wash the wound with a solution of carbolic acid and water 
and then apply a healing salve. The disease is curable, but remem- 
ber very contagious. 

Going Light 

Going light is the curse of the pigeon world. Whole flocks have 
been cleared out, and on account of this disease many hundreds of 
fanciers gave up the business in despair and disgust. When it 
makes its appearance quick action is necessary to prevent it from 
spreading. It is sometimes caused by birds getting chilled coming 
or going to shows. Tuberculosis can, in almost every instance, be 

1-i 



traced to dirty food, water, tilthy houses and runs or some other 
neglect on the part of the owner. From appearances to the unex- 
perienced the bird seems well but in a few days dies, having wasted 
to a mere skeleton. The disease stafts with diarrhoea, and in the 
course of a few days the bird becomes so weak that it is unable to 
fly. When a bird so afflicted is found I would advise to take it out 
of the flock and kill it. While there are a number of remedies that 
in some cases will cure, yet I do not think it advisable to give any 
here. As stated above, when it is first discovered, kill the specimen, 
clean up, disinfect and eradicate the cause w^hich in nearly every 
case you are able to do. 

Leg Weakness 

Sometimes this is due to injury of the spine, but more frequent- 
ly to rheumatism. Injury to the spinal cord does not give much en- 
couragement in effecting a cure, for in many cases the paralysis 
will become complete. For leg weakness caused by rheumatism 
remove the bird to dry, comfortable quarters, feed sparingly of 
strong- fbod and the bird will usually come around alright. 



Pigeon Houses and Equipment 

The Standard Nesting Equipment 

The ready made style has four of these double nests to a section. 

Ready made Standard Houses and Equipment — up-to-date and 
sanitary — are the most economical. 

They are a great boon, not only to the marketing squab-raiser 
but are ideal for Fancy Breeds and Racing Homers. For the latter 
the fly pen is not used (except for a house of untrained birds to ex- 
ercise). The regular signal bolting traps are placed at the overhead 
shutes, which are so arranged that on a race day when a l^ird homes 




Mate:. 



and rings the signal bell the bird can be caught in the overhead shute 
in the alleyway, its counter band can be promptly removed and plac- 
ed in the time clock quicker than by any other method in use. 

One of the greatest essentials in keeping pigeons to derive the 
most pleasure and profit, is proper equipment. You can no more be 
highly successful with a make-shift house, tlian you can do a g'ood 
job with poor tools. 

At the post-war price of labor and lumber you cannot build even 
a make-shift as cheaply as you can buy some standard ready-made 
house. Even after you pay the freight bill, a standard will be cheap- 
er. You can put them up one day and place your birds in the next 
day. 

Description 

Standard houses are l)uilt in sections of well seasoned, tongued 

76 



and grooved boards on sides and ends. Doors and windows are al- 
ready in. Strong frame and good roofing material are used, size is 
eight by fourteen feet. Seven feet elevation in front ; eight feet to 
the gable and six feet rear with a four foot alleyway in front, be- 
tween the nesting room and the fly pen where the most light enters 
and the birds have better light to eat out of the feed-troughs that are 
in the alleyway than when the passageway is in the rear as it is in 
the old style houses. A wire netting partition with a door in it di- 
vides the alleyway from the nesting room. There is a door in the 
front elevation with wire cloth and windows of same material in the 
rear, so constructed as to give a large volume of light and ventilation 
without drafts on the birds. A new feature is a wire partition run- 
ning from the edge of the top row of nests to the ceiling. 

To erect the house you merely bolt it together with a wrench 
and place the roofing material on. After it is bolted together you 
can move it anywhere you wish. If you want to add more units you 
need only to unfasten your bolts, remove the end and fasten to the 
next house and so on, continuing with a row of houses. It is advis- 
able to purchase two or more if you are engaged in Scpiab Produc- 
tion, four is the most economical number to buy. Birds breed extra 
fast in these houses. When saving youngsters for breeders you need 
extra houses. 

When the youngsters start to mate, trap them with an auto- 
matic trap and place them in a breeding house. 

The Interioi* 

The interior of the houses, with their apartment nest boxes, 
keeps the birds mated where you want them and keeps them tame. 
Every pair has a home to themselves for nesting, but the birds can 
all be together when feeding or in the fly pen. 

The feed and grit are placed in special troughs in the alleyway 
(not the nesting room). This saves opening a great number of doors 
which causes a waste of time and continually tracks in dirt to the 
aisle. 

The special feeding troughs are so arranged in the aisle that 
the birds can put their heads thru the lattice work to eat and do not 
scatter the feed in the nesting room or aisle. 

It is a pleasure to walk thru a clean alleyway and show your 
birds to advantage in standard houses and equipment, and point out 
every double nest box with contented working birds. When each 
pair has a home of their own, they do not fight. 

P'igeon keepers who do not have standard nest boxes usually 
have three times as many nest boxes as birds, which means a lot of 
wasted room and recjuires a house one third larger than the stand- 
ard house. 

With a three nest idea, birds are continually changing nests and 
fighting for possession ; soiling, breaking eggs, killing peepers, and 
knocking squabs out of the nests. The price of a few of the squabs 
thus lost would pay for a section of standard nests. 

77 



With standard double nest equipment all of the birds are peace- 
ably at work and raising more and better squabs. 

They cannot fight with their neighbors, as the partition extends 
out from the landing nest board. Every apartment nest box being 
occupied, saves one third on the cost of nests, which is quite an item 
coupled with the one-third cost of the building. 

If a pair of breeding birds are sold, their nests are closed up 
until occupied by another pair. If a breeder dies, say, in apartment 
number ten, a young bird of mating age of the same sex should be 
taken from a youngster's house and placed in number ten to mate 
up. A leg band of the same color as the band on the other bird, 
should be placed on the opposite leg of the new bird (cock — right 
leg; hen — left leg.) Close them in with a mating screen and let 
the screen remain till the birds are mated. 

The mating screen is another good invention, and when it is in 
place, a pair of birds must work where they are mated, for all the 
other nests are occupied or closed up. They will not build nests on 
the floor as there is too much light on the floor. They cannot build 
above the nest boxes as the wire partition runs from the top row 
to the ceiling. At night the hen is on the nest and the cock is in 
the adjoining nest or on the landing board. He cannot roost over a 
door or window, because the way in which these places are con- 
structed prevents him from doing so, and he must roost near his 
mate all night. 

Standard mating traps are made four to a section, are placed 
against apartment nests in a youngster's house and work automatic- 
ally. Birds can go in and out at will, but when a pair is noticed 
"billing" or "driving" find out the nesting place number (every nest- 
ing place should be numbered) then set the trap and leave it for a 
time. Upon your return you will find they have automatically trap- 
ped themselves. If a cock is noticed in a nest box cooing for a mate, 
set the trap, even tho he does fly out before it is set ; he will return 
and a hen with him. These traps can be used to advantage in a 
breeding house where the birds are not all mated. Having four 
traps to a section, they fit any standard nesting equipment and you 
will soon have every pair mated, will know what they are doing and 
can weed out the drones. 

Fly pens should be eight feet wide or as wide as the houses, 
should be twelve feet in length and should be six and a half feet high. 
If higher, the birds would be out of reach. Alighting boards are 
placed around the sides and against the house. A good grade of 
two inch mesh galvanized netting is used ; one inch can be secured 
at a higher price. If you have an old house and need only double- 
nest equipment, you can secure any number desired. If you are 
breeding Racing Homers your needs will be bobs, bell with sufficient 
wire, insulated staples, switches, etc. 

78 



1 T 




The Old Style of Nesting Equipment 

This style cell arrangement is fast disappearing as the birds are 
too close to each other and fight for each others nests. At times be- 
cause of this, some of the pairs are delayed a whole season before 
getting down to work. 



79 



Mating 



When buying birds be sure to buy from a reliable breeder. Your 
birds should all be mated and ready to go to work. But nearly every 
beginner wants to raise some youngsters and must mate them when 
they are old enough. The time depends on the birds themselves. A 
small number may show signs of mating when they are four months 
old, and even sooner, while the majority of birds will not mate until 
they are five months old. 

The hens always show signs of mating before the cocks, and 
many breeders make a great mistake by mating to an old cock bird, 
a young hen three or four months old, before it has gained the proper 
vitality. It is not wise to mate birds too soon. When it is desired 
to mate only a few pairs now and then, take them from the house 
you are rearing the youngsters in, and put them in a breeding house 
where you want them to work, using the mating screen. Some birds 
will mate in a day or two, while others will be a week or two. To 
mate, place a bird in each apartment, using the spindle partition 
between them. If they are agreeable the cock will begin to coo and 
walk about, spreading his tail and making advances toward the hen, 
lowering and raising his head and waltzing all the way round, nearly 
on tip-toes, continuing his "wow-wow, wackity-coo," in a very deep 
tone. The longer he keeps up the flirting the more he lengthens 
out the coo. 

The hen at first acts very shy and apparently pays very little 
heed to her ardent wooer. But his constant, earnest cooing soon 
Y^dns. The hen finally giving up to the artfulness of Cupid's wiles, 
nods her head in approval, blinks her mild eyes and struts about with 
wings partially extended. She then swells out her throat, showing 
an irridescent lustre of bright feathers, and after making a low coo 
takes the decisive step up to the partition and watches the cock go • 
ing thru his ardent wooing. For a moment s'he places her head back 
under her left wing, and the cock does likewise. After this part of 
the ceremony the cock places his head thru the partition, and takes 
the bill of the hen in his (taking bills) and with long aflfectionate 
kisses they love each other as only doves can love. Their unirm is 
sealed and you can now rest assured these devoted birds will live as 
peacefully as doves. Don't keep them separated any longer. Take out 
the partition and throw in a few stems, that they may go to house- 
keeping and go on with their domestic affairs. For convenience we 
will call the cock, "Dick," and the hen "Bets." You will now observe 
that Dick goes to one corner and calls to his bride. Bets follows 
and gently picks over his head. Dick, in pigeon language says : — 
"Here we will make our home." And Bets sits in the nest l>owl 
while Dick gathers stems, testing each in his bill before laying them 
at Bets' feet. It is Dick's duty to find a suitable home and material 
for the nest, and Bets' part is to build the nest, which she sets al)out 

80 



doing. Now this deserving- pair should be registered. The first 
thing to do is to record their leg-band number, if the band be seam- 
less and then place on open bands ; the same color band on the right 
leg of the cock and on the left leg of the hen. You can now tell all 
mated birds at sight. 

The Register Card 



This is a sample of the card, 
reduced in size, that should be 
used on every pair of nests. To 
tell all the knowledge gained by 
using these cards would fill quite 
a book. 

By certain marks you will learn 
the qualities of each individual 
pair. You can tell by the card 
how soon the birds started to 
work. 

Any birds /and youngsters that 
do not grow up to a good size can 
be culled out and shipped to the 
squab market. 



Cock No 
Hen No. 

Variety 


PAIR NO 

Color 

Color 




Laid 


Hatched 


Band 


Color 


























































































■ 1 




Color Bands 

The cock should have the same color band as the 
hen, viz: Pair i. Red bands, Cock right leg, hen left. 
Pair 2 — Blue bands, etc. In this way you can tell mates 
without catching them to read numbers. 



The home is now ready for Dick and Bets to start as pedigreed 
breeders. The card will tell how well they succeed. Bets, as she 
flies about Avill be followed by Dick, who will continue driving her 
(driving to nest), picking her on the head and driving her to the 
nest. Old style nests may cause the whole coop of breeders to be in 
an uproar and swear vengeance against these young intruders. Some 
of the bold fellows will want to take Dick's mate, but he keeps close 
at her heels. There are several empty nest boxes from which Dick 
can choose, but he will probably take a fancy to a nest that is occu- 
pied by an old pair of breeders with eggs, or squabs, and after a 

. 81 



scrimmage lasting a couple of weeks, the eggs will be destroyed and 
the old breeders driven from the nest. But they are not inclined to 
seek another nest but will continue to fight with the new pair. 
Finally, they get in trouble with other pairs and thus for a month or 
more eggs and squabs are destroyed all on account of just one pair 
of birds being thrown in a coop to shift for themselves. 

For two months, I had two pairs of birds fighting for the same 
nest. When I thot one pair was settled, the other would cause trou- 
ble, so, finally, I placed one pair in another coop. 

I then determined to remedy this evil and succeeded by the im- 
proved nests and the methods mentioned in this book. 

Do not be deceived into thinking that fifty cocks and fifty hens 
placed in a coop will mate in a week's time, or that if a bird die, all 
you need do is to throw in an extra bird to mate. It will mate, no 
doubt, and will probably break up more than one pair by doing so. 
A loss in eggs and squabs follows and do you know whether the bird 
that died was a cock or a hen? 

My advice is to take the old bird out of the breeding house if 
possible, or it will cause trouble. If you are rearing youngsters, 
place it in with them, as an odd bird should never be permitted in a 
house of regular breeders. 

Some breeders mate difilerent colored birds together, claiming 
it gives more stamina and that the birds breed better. My experi- 
ence with many matings has been that the color of the pigeons 
makes no more difference than would the color of a man's clothing. 
This proves the method of mating, as given in this book, to be su- 
perior to any other method. The reason some claim they get bet- 
ter results with birds mated to different colored birds, is due to the 
fact that they are more apt to be birds that are not nest-mates, but 
by the methods herein stated, you are doubly sure of not mating 
nest-mates.' One advantage of mating up dififerent colored birds is, 
that a person with a small flock can more readily keep track of 
mates that are not banded, which accounts for the success some have 
over others who do not know their birds. 

It is surprising how soon a person can become familiar with a 
flock of birds, and point out the different mates. But all this is not 
necessary when you buy properly mated and banded birds, or band 
your own birds with colored bands as they mate. 

How To Tell The Sex 

The best way to determine the sex of pigeons is to watch their 
actions. One of the surest signs, we have noticed by close observa- 
tion, is that the cock bird when flirting will occasionally turn all 
the way round, but have never noticed a hen turn more than half 
way. The cock is usually larger than the hen, and its head is round- 
er, its neck thicker and coarse, while the crown of the head of the 
hen is, as a rule, slightly concaved. But the shape of the head can- 
not always be relied on. 

The eyes of the cock are bold and defiant, while the hen has a 



milder expression. The vent bones of the cock are closer than those 
of the hen. The older the hen, the wider apart the vent bones. This 
is due to laying. 

The latter method is most relied on by breeders and dealers, but 
it is not always a sure sign, as we have had cocks, whose vent bones 
were Avider apart than those of the hens. Again this rule cannot be 
depended upon in the case of young birds, as it is only the laying of 
eggs that distends the vent bones of the hens. Another method is 
to feel the end of the breast-bone, which will be found to extend 
further back in the cock than in the hen. A method I used when a 
boy was to take the feet of the bird in the right hand and the bill in 
the left hand, and stretch it. If the bird was a cock, the tail would 
drop or lie even with the body ; if a hen, the tail would be thrown 
above the level of the body. I have often followed t'his old rule, 
but as I became more familiar with the birds and their actions, I 
did not test by this method but was guided more by their actions 
and the expression of their eyes. When you get a doubtful bird and 
have tested it by all the methods you know, place it in a mating 
coop Avit'h a good vigorous cock bird and you wall soon be satisfied 
as to its sex. 

To tell the sex of a dead bird when you wish to re-mate the 
other one, disesct it by cutting it down the back, wthich will positive- 
ly reveal the sex. 

The study and rearing of pigeons will be found very interesting. 
You can learn something every day by closely observing everything, 
wliich makes it a very interesting as well as profitable business. 



Marketing Squabs 



How to Tell When Squabs are Ready for Market 

Never pick cherries until they are ripe and never pick squabs 
until they are plump. If squabs are not plump at five weeks, don't 
keep them any longer, as they usually get thinner between five and 
six weeks of age, do not take on fies'h again until two or three 
months old, and do not attain their full growth as pigeons until one 
year old. They are then as large as they ever will be, except a few 
which may put on extra fat. If a squab is firm and the pin feathers 
are a quarter of an inch long, no matter what age it is, it is ready 
for market. Experience will teach just how far to let them grow. 
Remember, the longer they grow and take on flesh the better for 
the squab-raiser. 

If, after examining one, you think it will take on more flesh, let 
it continue. If it is feathered sufliciently and appears to have its 

83 



growth with tail feathers about three inches long, don't let it go^ 
another week for it will lose flesh. 

Prepare Squabs for Market 

If you propose shipping on Monday, go thru your coops on Sat- 
urday and notice how many squabs will be ready. If it is about the 
same number you had the previous week, get boxes or barrels ready 
to accommodate the required number. Have your shipping tags, 
tubs and everything in readiness and early Monday morning, before 
feeding, gather the squabs— not in a box, or you will have some of 
them smothered before killing time, unless the box is ventilated on 
both sides. 

How Squabs Are Picked 

Let us presume your picker or pickers have filled a tub half 
full of water, and placed in it two handfuls of salt, while you were 
gathering the squabs, and also have the knives ready. Now conies 
the part that is done in various ways — the killing of the squabs. 
Some chop the heads off, others get the feathers off by scalding 
them the same as chickens are treated in the West, and then wonder 
Avhy eastern poultrymen and squab-raisers get more for their goods. 




Still others ship them with the feathers on. Without going over the 
various ways, which are wrong, let us get to the manner in which 
the eastern and good western trade demands them, namely : — feath- 
ers plucked, head and feet left on, and the entrails not drawn. 
Markets that demand squabs dressed, they should be, w*hat is term- 
ed "dry picked." Suspend the sc^uab from a noose tied to its feet, 
then hold the squab by the wings and head and thrust a knife in the 
mouth, to the back of the jugular vein, then draw it up into the 
brain. This causes the feathers to loosen. You can now pick and 
not get soiled if you hold the wings right. 

This is a more humane way of killing than by cutting the heads 
oif. As soon as the blood flows readily, pull out the wing feathers, 
then the tail, then the feathers on the crop. This is where you 
should be careful, so that you will not tear the skin. If several are 
picking, one should do the roughing and sticking and the rest pick 
the pin- feathers. After a little experience sc^uabs can be picked in 
two or three minutes. Some pickers work faster by placing a bag 
on their laps, sticking and picking while the squab is on the lap. If 
it is a rough bag, be careful not to skin the squab. 

Do not become hurried and begin picking a squab before it 
starts to bleed. If you do, it will turn out to be a very dark red 
bird. This is the cause of a great many dark squabs. Pick off all 
the feathers but the ones on the head. Some leave a few feathers 
in the wings like squab ducks. But squab pigeons are not squab 
ducks ; nor squab broilers, altho the latter are picked the same as 



squabs. As soon as the squal) is plucked it should be thrown into> 
the tub to further plump it. If a squab should be a little dark the 
brine will tend to whiten it. 

After the squabs have been in the first water half an hour or 
an hour, wash them and place in another tub of clean water with- 
out salt, allowing them to remain the same length of time. Then 
suspend them on a rack wdiere two eight penny wire nails are driven 
in every five inches, one quarter of an inch apart. Or you may take 
them out of the tub and pack immediately after drying them with a 
cloth. If you find any still dark, place them in a bucket of water to 
which has been added a half teaspoonful of baking soda. 

Packing 

Never pack a warm scjuab, the animal heat wnll cause it to turn 
green. In summer time place a layer of cracked ice about the size 
of walnuts in the bottom of your box or barrel. If you use a box, 
lay them in rows breast down. When half full, place another layer 
of ice, then more squabs, and top off with ice. Write on a slip of 
paper the number of squabs and the weight. While your picker is 
getting the squabs ready you should be attending to your mail. Be 
sure to tell your expressman to call in time for a certain train. You 
do not deliver the squabs ; the expressman calls for them, and gives 
you a receipt for them, which you should keep on file. The agent 
places them in the baggage car adjoining the passenger coaches, and 
when they reach their destination they are delivered by the express 
company. There is no extra charge for calling for or delivering 
them at the other end. You can pay the expressage, or the com- 
mission men will deduct it wdien they make your returns, which 
should be the same or the following day. 

Let us go now back to where we finished packing. 

After the lid is nailed down good and tight, tack on the tag the 
commission man sent you, and write your own name and address, 
or stamp it on, which is better. Now mail a postal card or letter 
saying: "Shipped you today 50 lbs. squabs," or what ever the weight 
may be, as squabs are now mostly sold by weigiit. 

Squabs are cooked by the same general rules used for cooking 
poultry and wild game birds ; but must not be cooked so long, as 
squabs are very tender and their fine, mild flavor should not be de- 
stroyed by over-cooking. Squabs have the finest flavor wdien they 
are four weeks old. They are then at the right age, plump and well 
filled out. 



35 



Recipes 



Fried Squab on Toast — After cleaning, split down the backs, 
place in a frying pan with a little water. Add pepper and salt ; then 
■cover. After steaming a few minutes, put some butter in the pan, 
and fry until a nice brown. When fried, toast bread, nice and crisp, 
and lay half a sc^uab on each slice, pour over this a little of the broth 
you have saved from the steaming after you added butter and serve 
hot ; sprinkle with a little celery salt. 

Roast Squab On Toast — Draw the sc[uabs and wipe with a damp 
cloth ; do not wash. Cut off heads and feet and sprinkle with pep- 
per and salt. Fasten thin slices of salt pork over the breasts ; place 
in a roasting pan with a little water. Baste every five minutes. A 
few minutes before taking up lay a slice of toast under each squab 
to serve it on. Brown coarse bread crumbs in butter and pour over 
each squab. Boil the liver and pound to a paste with butter ; salt 
and pepper and spread on the toast on which you serve the squabs. 

Roast Squabs With Oyster Dressing — Remove heads and feet 
from a dozen squabs and after cleaning, dry with a cloth, then make 
the dressing of stale bread seasoned with salt and pepper and a lump 
of butter. Put a pint of oysters in the dressing. Tie the necks of 
the squabs and stuff them ; then place in a roasting pan, with water, 
laying the squabs in rows with breasts up. Bake until a nice brown, 
basting frequently. Make a gravy by adding water, then thicken 
with a little flour and milk. 

Roast Squabs Stuffed With Chestnuts — Roast same as in recipe 
number one. Prepare stuffing as follows : Remove the sinews from 
one pound of lean veal, and the strings from the same weight of 
leaf lard. Chop together until well blended, moisten with one half 
pint of broth, add one teaspoonful of salt, one salt spoonful of pepper, 
one pint of chestnuts blanched and boiled. Fill the squabs. One 
cup of the cooked chestnuts may be reserved, mashed, sifted and 
used to thicken the gravy. This should be lightly browned, not to 
destroy the chestnut flavor. 

Squabs a la Cendre — Dress as many squabs as there will be cov- 
ers. Dry them and put the livers inside again with a little salt and 
butter. Wrap each scjuab in a thin bairde of salt pork, tucking a 
leaf of sage under each wing. Wrap again in well buttered paper 
(white) and roast half an hour in hot wood ashes, as you would po- 
tatoes with their jackets on. Remove the paper and serve with 
maitre d' hotel sauce. 

86 



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Maitre d' Hotel Sauce — Add to one cup of fresh drawn butter, 
the juice of one lemon, chopped parsley, minced onions, thyme, cay- 
enne pepper, and sah. Beat while simmering. 

Mint Sauce — If unable to procure the prepared sauce, make as 
follows : Three tablespoonfuls white vinegar, two of mint, one of 
sug-ar, and one of salt; mix at least ten minutes before using. 

When properly prepared they are fit to set before a king. 
"Four and twenty white squabs 

Baked in a pie, 
When the pie was opened. 

The squabs began to sing, 
'Is'nt this a dainty dish 

To set before the King:?' " 



87 



Index to Illustrations 

Page 

Fancy Breeds 7 

Blue Pied Pouter t... 11 

Eng-lish Carrier 14 

Flying Homer 15 

Trained Homers 16 

Show Homer 17 

Dragoon 19 

English Turbit 22 

Magpie 23 

Blondinettes 24 

The English Owl 25 

Trumpeter 26 

Jacobins 28 

Archangels 29 

Fantails 30-31 

Swallow 32 

Barb 33 

Scanderoon 34 

At Home C5 

Eunt re 

Heavy Type Dragoon 37 

Homer 41 

Standard Type Carneaux 43 

Maltese 47 

White King 52-53-54 

Mondaine 55 

Duchesse 56 

^'Peepers" 57 

'Squeakers" 58 

"Squealers" 59 

"Squabs" 60 

Dissected Gizzard 67 

Taking the Morning Bath 68 

Drinking Founts 69 

Bath Pan 70 

Nest Bowl 71 

Mates 76 

The Old Style of Nesting Equipment 79 

Color Bands 81 

Knife 84 



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